Fork disassembly questions

R100 · Post by **R100** » Tue Mar 10, 2015 4:34 pm

Will do.
Contemplating making another clamp - use 2.

R100 · Post by **R100** » Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:22 pm

Made a second clamp to spread the grunt around more evenly.
Hot air did not work, so I used propane.
The big spanners were positioned for leverage.
The first one was a b****, the second one easier.
Spray paint is an excellent substitute for Loctite.
Looks like something out of a cartoon, but it worked.
Anything weird to look out for when I take them apart?

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:29 pm

R100

That's a magnificent piece of improvization. Something to be proud of! So much better than a strap or chain wrench.

The tube should just pull out, but if it doesn't you may have the inside of the slider dimpled by someone using an over-long fender bolt. This can sometimes be dealt with by working the stanchion like a slide hammer. If not you may need to damage something to get them apart. I had one that was so bad I had to drill through the bottom of the fender mount hole to remove the dimple.

Good luck!

G

R100 · Post by **R100** » Thu Mar 12, 2015 2:48 pm

Stanchion tube slid out of the lower with no problem.
Not sure how to continue in order to remove the chrome housing.
Also, my online shop manual gives a spring free length of 278.8mm. Mine measure 403mm (15 7/8").

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Mar 12, 2015 2:52 pm

R100

You must dismantle all of the circlips and bushes from the bottom. Keep a careful note of where each part goes AND which way up it is. The damper valve (steel ring) has a chamfer on one side only.

G

R100 · Post by **R100** » Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:33 pm

G.
Does this ring come off? It does not want to move.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:47 pm

Yes - its supposed to be free as it provides the bump - rebound damping function as a valve over those holes.

G