cb 77 engine stuck???

brewsky · Post by **brewsky** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 5:17 am

G-Man wrote:
Nowadays, with highly corroded cases, I go straight for drilling the head off. Usually the remaining half of the screw is loose after that.

G

That probably prevents a lot of frustration, cursing, and wear and tear on your good driver bits!

I learned the valve grinding compound trick from an old mechanic years ago.

More on JIS screws here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a- ... -Standard/

I found a set of Motion Pro T handles (#1,2,& 3) for $15.00 at my local dealer and they are fairly decent. Literature said they are JIS, even though the web site doesn't mention it.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0146/

waynew · Post by **waynew** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 7:59 am

thanks guys i'm going after those 2 remaining screws this afternoon when i get off work and will let y'all know how things turn-out. hopefully when i remove the c-c-cover i can find that piece that broke off

davomoto · Post by **davomoto** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:24 am

G, the center punch works well on countersunk screws as well. On all phillips head fasteners, I first put only the bit in the screw head, and give it as sharp blow with a hammer. Sometimes this is enough to enable a regular screwdriver to loosen the screw. if not, then I use the impact driver. If it still won't come out, or strips, then it's time for the center punch.

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:25 am

e3steve wrote:I'm in total agreement, in every aspect, with both the foregoing posts from Brew & G!

Wayne, if you have the bike's OEM toolkit then that's the driver blade to use (the Phillips 2-point) but it must be in good condition; there's a T-handle in the toolkit to fit over the driver blades, usually a separate item but, in some kits, sometimes is just a slot halfway along in the handle of one of the smaller, pressed steel spanners (wrench). If the tip of the blade is worn then it won't grip in the screw slot (great idea of Brew's, using the valve grinding paste) and the whole wear-cycle goes full circle: the screws start wearing the tip then the tip ruins more screw heads -- and so it goes. Phillips drivers fit the JIS screw heads very well, but if a screw is corroded or stubborn then use the toolkit driver first to break it loose. Snap On Phillips tips have tiny, angled barbs machined into the a/c/w vanes' faces for extra grip.

The Unicorn 2600 Impact Driver from eBay's mrsuperdeals (Rusty Riders) is a great -- and inexpensive -- bit of kit, and the included hardened driver blades fit our screws perfectly

Beware screwdriver tips made by Reed & Prince (45º tip angle -- Phillips is 30º), Pozidriv (extra flutes between the blades' vanes) or GKN SupaDriv (like Pozi but shallower, truncated tip). They definitely will screw up your heads! Pun intended.

Sorry Wayne, everybody, error! Phil/JIS 3-pt! It's been a long time since I had OEM casing screws, as I use Allens now.

waynew · Post by **waynew** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 7:35 am

AN UPDATE...LOUD MOUSE hit the nail on the proverbial head. I did have ALL 3 screws in the outer starting clutch to become loose and create the bind. Also one spring and cap fell out of the same part. The other issue i found on the left crankcase side concerning where the oil filter shaft meets the crancase appears to be an old break and i also could not find the broken piece anywhere. I want to thank everyone of you for your suggestions and support-it means alot. BTW, can any of you recommend anyone who rebuilds/repairs the tachometer and speedometer? Have a great weekend everyone!

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 8:27 am

Scott Pargett and others here have used Foreign Speedo in San Diego; not heard a bad word about them yet.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 10:31 am

At times I get a feeling that there are those on the forum who Can/do cause confusion when offering "To Many Possibilities for a Simple Problem".
This is one of those.
Squeak/Squeal motor Seizure were/are the Keys from the start.
Pistons/cylinders were/are good and never the problem when shown early in this thread.
I admit that it Could Have Been something loose in the clutch side!
Been There Seen That!
Broken area of the case Could Have Been the problem if that small part was inside and rubbing the chain/clutch outer case.
Only saw one combustion chamber so wasn't able to compare the other exhaust valve to the one shown.
Yes, most exhaust valves show white when engine is adjusted correctly.
So the valve/missing piece diverted us from the area where "Not Common/Not Rare problem was.
As for the case I'd use it AS IS cause the damage was done in a way which won't/doesn't cause any oil flow/mechanical problem when the shaft is installed.
Just rambling comments from a Old Bike Rider/Runner who really tries to notice the Word Clues offered with the problem description.
Still No Answer as to How Do Ya Tighten The Nut on the Left Side of the CRANK!!!!!!!!!!!. ......lm

waynew wrote:AN UPDATE...LOUD MOUSE hit the nail on the proverbial head. I did have ALL 3 screws in the outer starting clutch to become loose and create the bind. Also one spring and cap fell out of the same part. The other issue i found on the left crankcase side concerning where the oil filter shaft meets the crancase appears to be an old break and i also could not find the broken piece anywhere. I want to thank everyone of you for your suggestions and support-it means alot. BTW, can any of you recommend anyone who rebuilds/repairs the tachometer and speedometer? Have a great weekend everyone!