Head Gasket Replacement

[Terry McKitrick]

I have a 1966 CP77. I have rebuilt/restored pretty much everything except the engine. It runs strong and smooth and does not burn any oil, but it does leak slightly around the front of the head. By "slightly" i mean about an ounce per week, and only after running for a while. I have the gasket set, but I am not entirely convinced I want to tear the top of the engine apart for a small problem I am willing to put up with (parking on top of a newspaper in the garage).

I am reasonably handy, but not an experienced mechanic. Is head removal and replacement something an amateur should attempt? I have done this with an old British sports car where all the moving parts were on top of the head and easily removable and replaceable. I have read through some of the threads here, and the prospect of frozen head bolts, timing chain removal and replacement etc. seem somewhat daunting. I have the shop manual, but it is written in a version of japenglish that is not easy to understand.

I am leaning toward the "it ain't broke, so don't fix it" solution, but could be convinced otherwise if it can be easily done.

Your thoughts?

[LOUD MOUSE]

Have you tightened the 8 head nuts and the ones under the spark plugs?. .....................lm

I have a 1966 CP77. I have rebuilt/restored pretty much everything except the engine. It runs strong and smooth and does not burn any oil, but it does leak slightly around the front of the head. By "slightly" i mean about an ounce per week, and only after running for a while. I have the gasket set, but I am not entirely convinced I want to tear the top of the engine apart for a small problem I am willing to put up with (parking on top of a newspaper in the garage).

I am reasonably handy, but not an experienced mechanic. Is head removal and replacement something an amateur should attempt? I have done this with an old British sports car where all the moving parts were on top of the head and easily removable and replaceable. I have read through some of the threads here, and the prospect of frozen head bolts, timing chain removal and replacement etc. seem somewhat daunting. I have the shop manual, but it is written in a version of japenglish that is not easy to understand.

I am leaning toward the "it ain't broke, so don't fix it" solution, but could be convinced otherwise if it can be easily done.

Your thoughts?

[Terry McKitrick]

Thanks LM.
I forgot about the ones under the spark plugs.
It will be a while before I drive it (still below freezing here).

[e3steve]

Hi Terry,
I have the same seepage from the head on my CB77. I, like you, am competent but no expert. I was going to replace the head gasket, as I have a rebuild kit on hand, but I think LM's advice of torquing-up the head fixings first is a good start.

Does your CP have trafficators (winkers)?. I have a generic set on my CB that I have just re-installed nicely and, for safety, intend keeping; the handlebar-mounted switch is bloody awful, so if you come across a CP winker switch assy I'd be grateful of a heads-up.

Regards from sunny (but presently windy) Mallorca!

Steve

[Terry McKitrick]

Note to Steve:
Finally got warm enough to drive. Tightening the head bolts did not help, but the seepage is only a couple of tablespoons a week, so I am going to put up with it for now.

The winkers I have are non stock (much larger, and I hope, safer). The winker switch is also non stock. Ebay is by far the best source of parts I have found.

Good luck in your search.

Terry McKitrick

[e3steve]

Thanks Terry, I'm glad you're able to get astride at last! I'm looking for a C or CA72/77/78/92/95 r/h switch assy to try. I know the throttle cable routes through the 'bar on these models, so the starter button casing differs from those on ours. But I'm hoping to modify the upper half of the r/h switch casing to accommodate the flange of the CB throttle pipe. I'll post how I get on - once I find one, that is.

The winkies I inherited are quite dinky (no pun intended) and VERY bright; they use small-envelope SBC (Small Bayonet Cap), 23-Watt lamps! Normally, 12V single-filament auto lamps for winkers are 21-Watt SBC and large-envelope (the glass bit); I've only ever come across small-envelope SBCs in 5- and 10-Watt, so I'm trawling the 'Net for spares. No need for a mimic in the headlamp, even in bright sunlight (you remember sunlight that far north?).

Safe riding!