I was going to replace the rectifier on my CB77 but on reading various posts I am now thinking maybe I should go for a regulator/rectifier in case I go for electronic ignition in the future.
Would this (see link) be suitable and how would you wire it?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Wire-Full- ... 1438.l2649
From reading other posts the requirement seems to be a single phase full wave unit? This says 2 phase but even suitable for single phase?
Greg
Regulator / rectifier
Fitted the regulator/ rectifier but now confused. I combined pink & yellow wires from generator for one feed, had brown as other feed, then red from regulator to battery through fuse (is 10 amp OK?) and green to earth circuits.
What I do not understand is that I only measure about 3volts coming out of reg / rectifier so I am thinking it is not working but if I measure the current to the battery by putting meter in series I seem to be measuring a reasonable current ( about 1 amp at idle increasing to about 5 amps at 5000 revs.) Does this make sense to anyone? I assumed I would see about 14v?? Greg
The output of the alternator, with or without combining the yellow and pink, is single phase AC. Cars typically have 3 phase alternators with the rectifier built into the alternator housing but I have never heard of 2 phase AC being used in automotive applications. The Ebay ad says "Also suitable for classic bike conversions with a 2-phase stator coil.". Does anyone else know something about these?
The claim is that this is a 2 phase full wave rectifier but it doesn't have enough AC inputs. It would require one input for each phase plus a common wire for a total of three. This device has only two (pink and yellow) along with two rectified and regulated outputs (green and red) suggesting that it really is a single phase rectifier-regulator. It appears that you have it connected correctly so I'm a bit puzzled by the low DC voltage. The current reading seems perfectly reasonable so there is something wrong here. Is it possible your meter is on the wrong range or you're reading the wrong scale or reading the wrong voltage? Is the battery not well connected? Even if there were no charging happening you would still see the battery voltage which is about 13.2 V for a fully charged and functional battery. If you can see the voltage at the battery go from its 13.2 V when the switch is off to more than 14 V or so with the bike running above idle then the R/R is doing what it should. If not, my guess is that there is a bad connection somewhere. I hope this is useful. Regulator output?Is that 3 volts measured between the regulator output and the battery positive terminal or between the regulator output and ground/earth.
If the former that would be quite enough to push a charging current into the battery in which case it sounds OK.
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