67' CB77 oil leak behind stator

[DJM]

You don't hit the BOLT in either direction.
Screw in the extractor or 16mm bolt with a spanner until it stops, then give the SPANNER a smart clout in a clockwise direction (IE tightening it further). Preferably use a soft faced mallet or copper hammer. This will break the taper fit between the rotor and the end of the crankshaft and the rotor will simply drop off at this point.

The Shop Manuals don't quote a torque figure for the bolt (not important?) but around 12 - 15 ft lbs should be fine. If you are a worrier a couple of drops of 'loctite' will give peace of mind but don't use a hard setting 'permanent' grade. I've never heard of one of these bolts coming undone.

[Tim Allman]

Yes, I was a bit vague because my extractor is a bolt that is longer than the one holding on the rotor. That one is, of course, too short to push the rotor off the shaft.

[G-Man]

DJM

Each to his own!

You should never hit a spanner (wrench) unless it is designed for it, like the special one that Villiers made with a lump on the end. Normal spanners are not designed for impact loads.

The percussion method is quite common in other areas like when you are trying to put a crank back together and incrementally adjust the side clearance on the rods. The press frame stores the energy and you just tap the press frame or the hydraulic ram to give an incremental shock that travels through the frame and creates a little shockwave that adds to the load for an instant.

Just like Newton's cradle with those little balls.

G

You don't hit the BOLT in either direction.
Screw in the extractor or 16mm bolt with a spanner until it stops, then give the SPANNER a smart clout in a clockwise direction (IE tightening it further). Preferably use a soft faced mallet or copper hammer. This will break the taper fit between the rotor and the end of the crankshaft and the rotor will simply drop off at this point.

The Shop Manuals don't quote a torque figure for the bolt (not important?) but around 12 - 15 ft lbs should be fine. If you are a worrier a couple of drops of 'loctite' will give peace of mind but don't use a hard setting 'permanent' grade. I've never heard of one of these bolts coming undone.

[DesertSilo]

Any recommendations on removing the old right crankshaft seal (not the sprocket seal)? seems to be pretty dang stuck in there and the lip seems to crumble when trying to pry it out. there looks to be a small metal plate behind the rubber gasket is that removable?

[LOUD MOUSE]

It has a metal plate on the engine side.
Find a sharp pointed something and go to the outer edge and tap through the rubber near the outer edge and pray out. .............lm

Any recommendations on removing the old right crankshaft seal (not the sprocket seal)? seems to be pretty dang stuck in there and the lip seems to crumble when trying to pry it out. there looks to be a small metal plate behind the rubber gasket is that removable?

[DesertSilo]

The seal I have shows 32 / 65 / 6.5 the one in the bike is 32 / 65 / 7.5 is that going to be an issues? Looks like the replacement lip is slightly larger than the gap.

Also after using an exacto knife around the entire edge still stuck in there good. Going to be a slow process of digging it out. looks like who ever installed it used sealant on both the inside and outside lip causing it to crumble at the slightest yank or pry......

https://imgur.com/zxgR5fP

before

https://imgur.com/GIrJHjz

-Geoff

It has a metal plate on the engine side.
Find a sharp pointed something and go to the outer edge and tap through the rubber near the outer edge and pray out. .............lm

Any recommendations on removing the old right crankshaft seal (not the sprocket seal)? seems to be pretty dang stuck in there and the lip seems to crumble when trying to pry it out. there looks to be a small metal plate behind the rubber gasket is that removable?

[oldbikedude]

I think you need to get behind the metal and pry it out.