Japan Meets Britain

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:33 pm

A side comment.
Today we don't meet other 250/305 bikes on the road like we did in the 60's.
I was there and would challenge any of the guys on them at a RED LIGHT, even the BSA and Triumphs and seldom lost to any even the 650's.
When I started rebuilding the bike and engines I insisted on AS BUILT BY HONDA. 1993+=.
Today I still insist that if a persaon wants a engine rebuild I will use HONDA parts and NO RACING SPECIAL PARTS!
VINCE I've watched you and what you did over the years and hoped things wouldn't come to these problems after all the $$$$ you invested.
DO hope you can get back on the road soon. ...............lm

Vince Lupo wrote:
Tim Miller wrote:It all sounds like a Band-Aid to the real problem. I would be looking into fixing the actual problem. If the little end has taper then it needs to be fixed via. Bushing or replace rod or crank. I was helping a vintage road racer racing CB 77 in GP 350/500 class rebuilding crankshafts and he was trying to running Teflon with very little success it was really eating them up. I would suggest you call any real piston manufacturer and ask them about Teflon buttons?

Peace out,
Tim
Well I actually don't know what the real problem is. John checked for play etc in the crank and it all seemed tight and fine to him (mind you, he does not have specialized equipment to finely check for crank wear, the clearances, wear etc). I am going to call Bill Moeller on Tuesday and talk with him further about these buttons. I will also ask him specifically about their longevity, and if they happen to fail after 2000 miles, then what? Since the pistons, cylinders, wrist pins and now the buttons are all Bore-Tech's, he should know his products better than anyone. I will also talk with my mechanic John about all of this and get some assurances.

This is what often happens when a non-mechanic (me!) relies on the expertise of others -- I'm liable to get differing opinions about what will and will not work, and what is a good and not so good idea. I will hopefully find out more on Tuesday!

Vince Lupo · Post by **Vince Lupo** » Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:51 pm

Well I have to say in defense of the non-stock/non-Honda parts that I've used over the years, that I actually haven't had too many big issues until this year. The NOVA transmission has been faultless, the Amals are working great, and for 12,000 miles the big-bore kit has been fine. The Norman Hyde mufflers have been on the bike for about 10 years. The Cappellini products seem to be doing their job. Admittedly, one thing we have NOT done anything to over all this time is the crank, so that could in fact be the source of my current woes. As far as the voltage regulator went, it actually was not working so it was replaced, no big deal. Same with the battery. Not sure what was going on with the Probe ignition (which I got from Michael Stoic) -- it's been in the bike for 13 years, so I can't say. As far as that camshaft goes, well Ed I got that from you last year, and it was a bit of a mystery as to who made it or the history behind it, but I took a chance. These things happen. I think it's really that a lot of things have happened all at one time this year, so that's what has me feeling a bit down in the dumps.

Believe me, I deeply appreciate everyone's suggestions and (sometimes!) head-shakings. It just gets a bit confusing at this end, as a non-mechanic, when I am getting multiple recommendations that can sometimes be at odds with each other (such as now with these teflon buttons). And I happen to be the hapless so-and-so who sorts through them all and make the decisions.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Mon Sep 04, 2017 3:36 am

If the cam I sent went bad I'll gladly replace it Vince. ...............lm

Vince Lupo wrote:Well I have to say in defense of the non-stock/non-Honda parts that I've used over the years, that I actually haven't had too many big issues until this year. The NOVA transmission has been faultless, the Amals are working great, and for 12,000 miles the big-bore kit has been fine. The Norman Hyde mufflers have been on the bike for about 10 years. The Cappellini products seem to be doing their job. Admittedly, one thing we have NOT done anything to over all this time is the crank, so that could in fact be the source of my current woes. As far as the voltage regulator went, it actually was not working so it was replaced, no big deal. Same with the battery. Not sure what was going on with the Probe ignition (which I got from Michael Stoic) -- it's been in the bike for 13 years, so I can't say. As far as that camshaft goes, well Ed I got that from you last year, and it was a bit of a mystery as to who made it or the history behind it, but I took a chance. These things happen. I think it's really that a lot of things have happened all at one time this year, so that's what has me feeling a bit down in the dumps.

Believe me, I deeply appreciate everyone's suggestions and (sometimes!) head-shakings. It just gets a bit confusing at this end, as a non-mechanic, when I am getting multiple recommendations that can sometimes be at odds with each other (such as now with these teflon buttons). And I happen to be the hapless so-and-so who sorts through them all and make the decisions.

Vince Lupo · Post by **Vince Lupo** » Mon Sep 04, 2017 5:21 am

LOUD MOUSE wrote:If the cam I sent went bad I'll gladly replace it Vince. ...............lm

No it's fine -- I'm just going back to my stock cam, so no worries.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Mon Sep 04, 2017 8:11 am

Thank you Vince. .................lm

Vince Lupo wrote:
LOUD MOUSE wrote:If the cam I sent went bad I'll gladly replace it Vince. ...............lm
No it's fine -- I'm just going back to my stock cam, so no worries.

Vince Lupo · Post by **Vince Lupo** » Tue Sep 05, 2017 1:13 pm

The bike is all back together and all seems fine (he did manage to get the piston direction situation figured out). John took it for a ride and experienced a bit of clutch slippage, so he's adjusted the clutch a bit and is going to test it out again. Hopefully that's a minor blip.

I spoke with Bill Moeller (Bore-Tech) today and asked him for some assurance about these teflon buttons, their longevity etc. He was completely confident in them -- he said that he has installed these in BMW's and others (some over 10 years ago) and they're all still working fine with no issues. He basically told me that he stakes his reputation on the products he makes and sells, and he wouldn't make and sell something if he didn't believe in it. Now, he did say that these are not going to eliminate the problem of whatever it was that's causing the wrist pins to push against the clips, but it is a good solution to the problem, if that makes sense. Here again, he said that the when he's seen this happen, it usually has something to do with the connecting rods. I asked my mechanic John about this again today, and he said that he's checked both the crank and the rods for anything unusual, and he maintains that everything is fine and looks totally normal to him. John did say that he thought that maybe the bores themselves looked a bit offset, but he couldn't say for certain. As far as the teflon buttons go from his perspective, John likes the setup and believes that all will be fine. So honestly, I'm happy with the reassurances from Bill Moeller as well as John.

Hoping that this will do it for a good long while! As I say, we've really not had too many big issues with the bike over all these years, and it's a bit of a shock to the system (and the wallet!) to have all of these things happen at one time.

Now, about that chain guard....

jensey · Post by **jensey** » Sun Sep 10, 2017 10:26 am

If the piston pin pushes against one side check your conrod for being straight. In 4 out of 5 times this the case. Tapered bearing can cause this, but very unlikely.