Proper Kick Start Assembly--Seeking 100% Clarity

[LOUD MOUSE]

Good deal. ..................lm

Thanks LM,
I did put it in neutral but gear selection also seems difficult so I will check again when I take the clutch out.

Greg

[GregMcN]

Well the good news is that the kick start seems to be OK.
I did remove the kick starter stopper bolt and replace with the mark visible but I am unsure if this was important because there was a problem with the gear change. When I thought I was in neutral I do not think I was despite the drive cog being free.

Checking out the gear change I can get all the gears if I rotate cogs internally via the drive cog or primary drive but without this it gets stuck - is this normal and likely to be OK once the engine is running? On other bikes I have had you have usually been able to select all the gears more easily.

On another note can someone tell me the size of the clutch release ball bearing as it is missing - I did see 5/16 in a post but is it not metric? ... though close to 8mm.

Thanks Greg

[LOUD MOUSE]

It is normal with this trans to HAVE TO ROTATE the gears a bit to move the shift forks.
If the outer drive sprocket can be turned without the clutch lever pulled YOU ARE IN NEUTRAL. (usually)
5/16 is inches and is correct. ........................lm

Well the good news is that the kick start seems to be OK.
I did remove the kick starter stopper bolt and replace with the mark visible but I am unsure if this was important because there was a problem with the gear change. When I thought I was in neutral I do not think I was despite the drive cog being free.

Checking out the gear change I can get all the gears if I rotate cogs internally via the drive cog or primary drive but without this it gets stuck - is this normal and likely to be OK once the engine is running? On other bikes I have had you have usually been able to select all the gears more easily.

On another note can someone tell me the size of the clutch release ball bearing as it is missing - I did see 5/16 in a post but is it not metric? ... though close to 8mm.

Thanks Greg

[GregMcN]

Thanks LM

Should have asked, does it matter what the ball bearing is made off, chromed? stainless? or the grade (accuracy)........... I would guess not too critical for this application?

Greg

[G-Man]

Just a standard hardened, and ground ball bearing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grade-100-Har ... l8w6DQRhGw


G



quote="GregMcN"]Thanks LM

Should have asked, does it matter what the ball bearing is made off, chromed? stainless? or the grade (accuracy)........... I would guess not too critical for this application?

Greg[/quote]

[Tropicalpunchai]

Thank you!!!!!!

Here's what worked for me.

1. The spring end that wraps around the bolt needs to have the orientation of an "S".
2. There is a punch mark and a "o" on the each of the two gears.
3. After the top gear is installed on top of the "S" spring, align the lower gear when installing so that EITHER the punch or the "o" line up.
4. With the crankcase flipped over, install the kickstart lever so that the punch on the arm aligns with the small punch on the tip of the shaft.
5. Go to the bike and turn the kickstart shaft that's in the transmission clockwise until it will not move any further.
6. Then as the kickstart lever is rotated, the gears should rotate around and either both punches or both "o's" will align. You'll find that the lever is now pointing up at about 2 o'clock.
7. Now hold the lever in this position and slip it onto the kickstart shaft on the bike and you're good to go.

I made the initial mistake of having the spring installed backwards, and not rotating the kickstart shaft clockwise completely. Thanks to Ed and everyone for help clarifying everything.