Amazing workmanship and design. Thanks for posting those pics.
G
engine build - slowly but surely
It sounds very throaty - the megs are Cone Engineering, 304 S/S, with the baffle packing made from s/s "wool". One last pic here, of a mid-60's RC166 - Mike Hailwoods 250 six. This was the look I was trying to achieve.
Mission accomplished, you've exceeded your goal. I thought those cans looked familiar. I just installed a set of Cone's longer touring version on a bike. Nice sound.
Thanks, guys.
A note on the wiring: I have no key switch. I have a master toggle that sends power thru a 15A fuse to the green rocker switch [top left near steering damper]. This in turn powers a buss bar I made, where the stock coils were. I made it from Delrin, with a copper bar machined to fit a milled slot in the Delrin. The copper bar has a series of tapped holes for the various needs of the system - makes it easy to trouble shoot any accessory. Parallel to the buss bar is a ground bar. The black rocker switch , lower rt of steering, is power to the ignition, and above that is a s/s push button for the starter. It's wired like the stock button, with the switch making ground to the solenoid [by the way is a Kohler, same as voltage reg.]. The left handlebar control is aftermkt, and has horn, lites, hi-lo. The rt side had no room for an aftermkt switch, hence the s/s push button. The handle bars are Vortex, except they do not make one for 33mm fork tubes, so I had to make a pr of bushings - had to do the same for the head lite ears. You'll see in one of the pics w/o the tank, I had a small pr of KNs on carbs - these flowed 96 cfm each - I replaced these with a larger set that flows 207cfm each, but had to make a bushing for these. The shifter rod had to extended, which I did from s/s, and added s/s Heim joints [rod ends], and attached to a re-made shift lever I made from 6061 aluminum.I did a lot of fitting to the shifter and foot brake , eliminating side play by minor machining on the shoulder bolt shoulders. If you note the brake arms, I removed the rivets and made new fasteners from s/s; did the same with the footpeg pivots - had to do this to plate them properly. The battery is an Antigravity battery, weighing 16 oz [stock was 7 lbs]. The fuel petcock is a Pingle, as well as the filter. Wire ties work well to tighten lines over the nipples. As said earlier, the reverse cones are from Cone Engineering, as well as the mid-pipes, which are 18 degrees, and cut to suit and welded to the pipes. Wheels are Excel from Japan, and sold by Buchanans, the spokes/nipples are s/s, 10 ga front, 9ga rear. The tail light is aftermkt, and fits to a mount I made. The bar you see bolted at the bottom of the plate is s/s and acts like bar end wts on handlebars to absorb vibration - it works, and no more cracked license plates. The tail section is fiber glass, from the 70's, local upholsterer making the cover. The tank is from Glass From the Past, in Oregon, and has a CB350 pan and an Aeromachi body, and has been treated inside with Caswell fuel proofer. I had a Sigma bike speedo, wireless on first, and would work as long as the engine was off, but not with it on - the electrical system interfered, so I went with a wired unit by Sigma. I used a small powerful magnet epoxied to the hub and passes by the pick up unit mounted on the lower fork leg - just program tire circumference into the head, as it counts revolutions, and converts to mph or kph. Has a clock, speedo, trip odo, regular odo, avg speed, max speed, trip time, avg time - nice little unit for $30. The head unit will 1/4 turn off, and you can slip in your pocket. I'm sure I left off some things, but will be on later.
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