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CB/CL 77 vs CB/CL 350/360 Stator

Charging System, Wiring, Lighting
Vince Lupo
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Post by Vince Lupo » Thu Jun 22, 2017 7:14 am

Yes 'L'! I knew it was one of those letters -- I had a 1 in 26 chance of getting it right :)

LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Thu Jun 22, 2017 7:16 am

(L) is for LOW. .................lm

Vince Lupo wrote:Yes 'L'! I knew it was one of those letters -- I had a 1 in 26 chance of getting it right :)

Billiam
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Post by Billiam » Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:59 am

Bearing in mind that IKBA really, about electrics and you probably know already that the original system was unregulated hence the low voltage. To do this only two wires from the alternator are generally used. If you fit as I did a solid state 3 Phase 5 Wire Regulator/ Rectifier From Lamberts Bikes at a cost of about £14.00 inc. You can find the third wire (Pink)
in the rubber boot over the wiring harness just above the gearbox. When this is wired to the R/R it gives up to 14.4 volts.
N.B. the pink originally went to the head light to get full power from the alternator when the lights were being used.
Unfortunately Lamberts no longer have the unit listed but there are othe suppliers of course.
So what you need in my umble opinion is a 3 Phase Full wave 5 Wire Regulator/Rectifier.
Has worked for me for a year.

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Seadog
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Post by Seadog » Thu Jun 22, 2017 1:13 pm

I agree that you should try a regulator/rectifier. Didn't you say that your stator output was fine? If you need simple, the Charlie's place unit fits the bill, but it isn't cheep. Abandon the rectifier wiring in the harness and connect directly to the stator. I used a Kohler unit in my Superhawk with an independent wiring harness and it works fine.

Nick
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Post by Nick » Fri Jun 23, 2017 2:07 am

Regarding the amount of magnetism remaining in our old stators, I knew a fellow who got the flywheel recharging device from Berliner Motors when they went belly up. He also had a Gauss meter to measure the amount of magnetism in the individual flywheel (or rotor) magnets and he kindly uprated the magnetism of the flywheel of my old Ducati 250.
On YouTube there was (is?) a video explaining how to make a flywheel/rotor re-magnetiser.

And of course, never store the stator and rotor separately, keep the rotor inside the stator when it's off the bike. And every time you "test" it with a screwdriver or something, you degrade the magnetism.
Do what you've always done and you'll get what you've always had.

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Fri Jun 23, 2017 2:53 am

My friend, who is MD of a magnet business nearby, showed me how you can use your stator to re-magnetise the rotor. Neat...

Yes - I agree about storing the rotor separately. A 50 year-old NOS rotor stored on its own is probably not worth much.......

G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F

964roadster
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Post by 964roadster » Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:14 am


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