Electronic Ignition Pops

Dr. Frankenstein · Post by **Dr. Frankenstein** » Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:56 am

So, could that be a reason why the bike backfired when I turned the switch through it's positions, even though I couldn't see a spark?

Geeky160 · Post by **Geeky160** » Sat Apr 29, 2017 3:20 pm

Didn't this bike run before the EI conversion? If so I would question the time setting methodology. Maybe the wiring configuration needs to be looked at again too.

You should be getting 12V in respect to chassis ground at the + terminal of the coil when the key switch is in the run position.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Sat Apr 29, 2017 3:45 pm

I've asked him if he had this and he acts like he doesn't really understand that to test a coil or make it spark 12 VOLTS is required at the coil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. .............lm

Geeky160 wrote:Didn't this bike run before the EI conversion? If so I would question the time setting methodology. Maybe the wiring configuration needs to be looked at again too.

You should be getting 12V in respect to chassis ground at the + terminal of the coil when the key switch is in the run position.

Dr. Frankenstein · Post by **Dr. Frankenstein** » Sun Apr 30, 2017 9:26 am

Geeky160 -No, I haven't had it running yet, this is the final stage of my complete tear-down and rebuild before I DO try to get it running.

I believe the wiring is pretty much stock - I don't see any evidence of it being messed with - there aren't any telltale black electrical tape wrappings anywhere, but the red wire coming off the pigtail connected to the Radio Shack-modded rectifier(which *I did) is red cloth-wrapped, which I haven't seen before...I just went ahead and substituted the EI because I had read it give you better mileage, timing and fuel consumption.

I will check the timing again, and the EI installation procedure just to make sure it's correct. I thought I did it right, but I could be wrong.

I also think part of my puzzlement is I bought a new coil off Ebay, and just assumed it would work without checking it - "buyer beware", I suppose.... now that I'm at the point where I want to install it and make the bike run, it never occurred to me it might be bad right out of the factory - but according to the video Mike sent me on how to check the coil, which I followed religiously, apparently it IS bad - both the new one and the OEM one I took OFF the bike - so I have to go back and check a multitude if things - timing, referencing the video to make sure I know what I'm looking at when I DO test the coil, fresh battery etc.

Note: for what it's worth, the 'new' coil is only showing 1.8 ohms at the inputs, where the wires go Into the coil...the OEM one shows 4.5 - but in either case, according to the video, I have no output...

OK, so - Geeky160 - just to be clear, to check what I'm getting at the coil - Switch/Battery ON,
Positive lead from the multimeter on the Positive coil lead, and the Negative lead from the multimeter grounded to the chassis, yes...?

But if the coil is bad, like the video shows and how I tested my coil(s), I can send all the electricity in the world to it and it still won't read right, right...? All it will show me is I'm getting 12 volts to the leads going TO the coil, but no output...yes?

Thanks for taking the time to explain this - my understanding of electricity and how it acts on a load device in a circuit is not as thorough as some...

Geeky160 · Post by **Geeky160** » Sun Apr 30, 2017 10:53 am

Note: for what it's worth, the 'new' coil is only showing 1.8 ohms at the inputs, where the wires go Into the coil...the OEM one shows 4.5 - but in either case, according to the video, I have no output...

I'm no coil expert but 1.8 sounds low. I would try the original again unless someone else thinks otherwise. My replacement coils were listed on EB as 5 ohms although I didn't verify them.

OK, so - Geeky160 - just to be clear, to check what I'm getting at the coil - Switch/Battery ON,
Positive lead from the multimeter on the Positive coil lead, and the Negative lead from the multimeter grounded to the chassis, yes...?

Yes, that should work. I wouldn't leave the key switch on for more than around 30 seconds without the engine running though.

Dr. Frankenstein · Post by **Dr. Frankenstein** » Sun Apr 30, 2017 11:01 am

Yes, I thought the same about the new coil...I have no idea why I got it - maybe I was just looking at the description for which bike it fit...but anyway...

"...I wouldn't leave the key switch on for more than around 30 seconds without the engine running though." Why is that...? Do Bad Things Happen? To the coils, especially..?

Geeky160 · Post by **Geeky160** » Sun Apr 30, 2017 1:10 pm

I was always taught to not leave the ignition in the run position too long. I would think running the battery down would be one reason. I know back in the day it was "you'll burn your points" but that doesn't specifically apply with our EI systems. There may be other ignition or charging system parts that could be put at risk though.

Don't feel bad, I rebuilt my carbs and upgraded to the EI too. I can't get the left to fire although I'm getting spark. It looks like I'll be at least changing the needle clips back to where I had them before. Good thing I saved all my parts and wrote down the settings.