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Tytronic electronic ignition help?

Charging System, Wiring, Lighting
Dr. Frankenstein
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Tytronic electronic ignition help?

Post by Dr. Frankenstein » Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:36 am

Okay, be forewarned this is kind of wordy and confusing, at least for me, but I need some help figuring this out...


I recently bought a Tytronic electronic ignition for my CA77 but can't figure out where the wires go. The unit I have has a RED wire and a BLUE wire attached to it, but as you will see the instructions (at least for me) have a WTF? Factor of Ten!

The condenser on my CA77 has two wires coming off the condenser: one goes to the points, the other to a green wire that goes to the coil.

I understand them down to Step 7 listed below, and then I get lost:
My aftermarket coil has a black wire and a green wire coming off it, and which of those coil leads is the Negative side, and which is the Positive?

Also, as seen in Step 8, where/which wire in the bikes wiring is the 'ignition positive' wire, and/or do I have to splice the electronic ignition wire into the wiring harness somewhere?

In short, how the hell do I wire this thing up, and has anybody installed one of these...?


NOTE: There is NOT a 'yellow wire' (Step 7) to be seen anywhere in my set-up, except for the yellow/red wire and the black/red wire that goes to the solenoid. The following instructions are verbatim - I simply copied and pasted the instructions here.



CYCLE-TECH ELECTRONMIC IGNITION KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Remove points cover & spark plugs, Remove fuel tank / side panel(s)if required to gain clear access to oem ignition coil(s)

2. Set ignition timing mark on rotor to “LF” mark ( F1 for multi cylinder motorcycles)

3. Using a test light or multi meter, ensure the #1 or leading set of points are just beginning to open ( test light will illuminate)

4. Remove oem ignition advance mechanism & points plate ( disconnect or REMOVE oem condensors )

5. Install cycle-tech ignition rotor, in place of original points cam on the advance mechanism fixing magnet towards the primary pick up coil position (typically yellow wire) ensure mechanical advance unit is operating properly ( you may need to expand flyweights on advancer to remove point cam)

On internal advance systems… ie CA & CB 77 72 models install Cycle-Tech rotor directly on points cam and secure with set screw

6. Install cycle-tech ignition plate, set with rotor magnet pointing slightly before mid ways primary pick up unit Snug plate fixing screws, but do not torque yet

7. Connect yellow wire from cycle-tech ignition to yellow wire to coil #1 or #1/4 connect blue wire from cycle-tech ignition to the #2 or #2/3 coil , On CB160/175/200 and CA72/77 systems connect the blue wire to negative side of ignition coil (points wire side) and connect remaining wire to positive side of coil or keyed on power, cycle kill switch to ensure proper ops

8. Connect the remaining wire (varies to black, black/white or red) to switched on ignition positive wire (remove or disconnect any ballast resister) the cycle-tech ignition is designed to function at system voltages of 9v-14v dc ( scotchlok connector supplied)

9. Set ignition timing as normal procedure for points ignition, first the primary pick up and then secondary (use same procedure as factory manual indicates) torque plate mounting screws

10. Install spark plugs and oem points cover and fuel tank if previously removed.




Clear as mud, right?
Anybody...?


-John

Geeky160
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Post by Geeky160 » Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:22 am

Franky,

Before you go further, I would install the new assembly and check to see if the points cover will go back on. I got my recently purchased system all set up and discovered two things. One, the pickup screws protruded through the back of the plate. The plate won't seat flat unless I Dremel the screws flat. Two, I don't think the screws are what's causing it but my points cover hits the pickups not allowing the cover to be installed.

If you don't have this problem I can tell you how I got my '67 CL77 wired. The blue pickup wire goes to the green wire that previously went to the condenser. The yellow wire goes to the yellow wire that also previously went to the condenser. The red wire is your switched 12V that comes from the ignition switch (on my bike). It was a grey sheathed wire that split into two black, one for each coil. The trick is to safely and neatly tie the red to the split blacks.

I couldn't figure out what they wanted me to do with the electrical connectors they sent, luckily I had various bits that I was able to piece together to make that connection. I may purchase a connector kit and rework the whole thing. I was however able to set the static timing but now have the cover clearance issue.

PS, I just realized that your coil is aftermarket, my instructions may or may not help you.

Good luck anyway, G
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Geeky160
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Posts: 138
Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 6:00 pm
Location: New Mexico, USA

Post by Geeky160 » Sun Apr 16, 2017 3:51 pm

This is the advise I got from the seller:

"some customers with the shallow points covers have rotated the pick ups 180 degrees to position pick ups in the deep section of cover...."

I wish he would have stated that on the auction before I mildly sweated it out.

No comment on the screw protrusion.

I had already figured out the 180 Deg. thing, I also added two small washers to the offending screws.

I don't know where you got yours but if it was an EB seller with sales in the name, same here. I hope if anything fails because of the non-orthodox install, he honors the warranty.

LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sun Apr 16, 2017 4:57 pm

Any chance you will show the offer so we can see it?. ...........lm
Geeky160 wrote:This is the advise I got from the seller:

"some customers with the shallow points covers have rotated the pick ups 180 degrees to position pick ups in the deep section of cover...."

I wish he would have stated that on the auction before I mildly sweated it out.

No comment on the screw protrusion.

I had already figured out the 180 Deg. thing, I also added two small washers to the offending screws.

I don't know where you got yours but if it was an EB seller with sales in the name, same here. I hope if anything fails because of the non-orthodox install, he honors the warranty.

Dr. Frankenstein
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Posts: 568
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:11 pm
Location: Charlottesville, VA

Post by Dr. Frankenstein » Mon Apr 17, 2017 4:40 am

Hi Geeky, thanks for the reply, but I think your application is a little different.

I see in the attached pic you have a yellow wire attached to your unit - I do not have that.
I have ONLY a Red wire, and a Blue wire, coming from the Tytronic unit.

Regardless, I went ahead and committed to the instructions described procedure and attached the blue wire to the condenser lead, and used the included wire splicer thingy to attach the Red wire in-line to the black ignition wire coming off the coil, just like the instructions say to do - or at least after I figured out what they were telling me to do.

The instructions are absolutely Horrible...maybe I'm overstating here, but the instructions are very broad, and short of some 'pics-only' of the unit mounted on the CA77 points rotor, does not seem specific to the bike the part was ordered for.

I think the instructions assume everyone working on their bikes has a good, solid understanding of electricity and electrical theory, which I do NOT - but I figured it out, or at least I *think I have - - there's not really anyplace else for the leads to go to, once you get the plate on and the one wire attached to the condenser lead.

So I ostensibly have the entire electrical system hooked up and ready to go -Only problem NOW is, I can't get gas to flow into the carb...but rather than hijack this thread, I'll post that under another topic - Carb Won't Fill.

-John

Geeky160
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Posts: 138
Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 6:00 pm
Location: New Mexico, USA

Post by Geeky160 » Mon Apr 17, 2017 5:22 am


danielzink
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Post by danielzink » Mon Apr 17, 2017 5:52 am

Funny (or not)......

I just bought (and returned) one of these just 2 weeks ago from the same guy.

Honestly the seller gave me less advice than he gave you....

Mine was the same as yours - 2 wires. Red to key on, Blue to points negative...

Condenser disconnected from circuit.

I couldn't get the system to make spark so I put my points back on and returned it to him.


Luckily he took it back with no flack at all.

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