Resolved those wiring issues today. It was the high beam, not the low and the fix was a new wire from the bulb to the harness. The starter solenoid was just not grounded to the handlebar - the switch body is open, waiting for new screws, so the starter button was just hanging. The solenoid clicks as it should with the switch body touching the bar. The tail light ground was more of a problem - I had to grind away paint. That's always distressing, since I had to go through a lot to get it painted in the first place. I also soldered bullet connectors to the horn wires to finish off its installation. Yet to do: wire in the stoplight switch, although connecting the harness wires did light it up, and; find a permanent home for the winker/blinker relay. I'll probably velcro it to the inside of the frame.
Still waiting for a clutch cover and cheapo Thailand mufflers. Still looking for OEM mufflers or good reproductions in OEM form.
1964 CA77 RestorationMany thanks, Eljeef. I have, of course, seen this parts drawing, but it doesn't show any points of attachment for the harness. All that I can find on the frame is a tab near the hole for the spark plug wires, which I believe is a mounting point for the rubber boot that covers the stator wire and neutral switch wire connections. My harness is installed and connected, but it just doesn't seem right that it hangs there without support.
Received the new clutch side cover yesterday and began preparing it for paint. It has to be warmer and drier for that, so it has to wait for a bit. In the mean time, I cleaned out the screw holes for the stator side cover and organized the new screws on a piece of cardboard. I received the screws for the winker/starter switch today from the U.K. and installed the throttle. The guy I'd bought the switch from really messed up the threads, but some lube and a bit of patience got the new screws working. I lubed the throttle mechanism and very sparingly with white lithium grease - the new cable was lubed before installing it - and after assembly, the throttle snaps back nicely. I wish the switch closed around the handlebar more, but the gap really isn't terribly noticeable.
This afternoon, I resumed construction of a battery box that I'd cut out of PVC some months ago, but had not assembled. I'll finish it tomorrow. All that will be needed is a strap. I'll find something with velcro. I also removed the two dowel pins from the old clutch cover to install on the new. Both were badly nicked and had small burrs. One looked as if it had been shortened because there was very little chamfer at one end. I looked up the part number to order two new ones and noted that they are supposed to be 10x14. The old ones are a bit longer - I think 16mm. I wonder if this was the reason I couldn't get the old case cover to seal up along the bottom. New pins ordered. Thank you for your kind words, G. I'm happy to be working on it again, but it's only possible because it has been unseasonably warm here this winter. The weather, combined with a small space heater, makes working in the garage workshop possible. Also, I've had this bike for 2 years now and I really want to get it up and running.
Small progress today. The clutch adjuster bolt I needed arrived this afternoon, so I was able to finish the right side up. I still need that small plug for the kick start knuckle. Not sure if I like the polished covers. I might tone them down later with a fine Scotchbrite pad.
I also neatened up some wiring. I'll make the final electrical connections to the regulator/rectifier tomorrow and mount the winker flasher.
It's a now waiting game. All of the wiring is complete and I've zinc plated the last of the small parts. I'm waiting for the weather to change this afternoon so that I can paint the clutch cover, which will take some days to cure and for the cheapo Thai mufflers to arrive. After two weeks in the mail center in NY, they've been shipped to NJ. The wrong direction, but at least they're moving. I'll fiddle with valve adjustments and the timing to keep busy.
LATER IN THE DAY EDIT: Before I set about to paint the new clutch cover, I decided to try the fit, just to make sure all would be okay. I installed the cover without a gasket and finger tightened the screws. the fit was terrible. There was a very large gap between the case and the rear of the cover. Also, I found that the left-most case screw was too short; the newer cover uses a longer one. I don't have one. I laid he new cover on the machined surface of my table saw and it appeared to be perfectly flat. I decided to try the old cover. With the new shorter dowel pins, it seemed to fit flat. I put the gasket on, tightened the bottom screws first where it was weeping previously and added oil. If there's still an oil weep, it's very small - a pencil thin line on my finger. I'll know more tomorrow after it has set overnight. My next step is uncertain. I want no leaks. What's the sure fix? It seems that the engine cases are not flat, even though they appear to be - they align perfectly. The certain thing to do would be to have them machined flat. That's just not possible. The only other remedy seems to try 2 gaskets or to use Hondabond. I do not want to use Hondabond if I have to remove the cover occasionally to clean the oil filter. Unless I have some revelation, I guess I'll have to try the 2 gasket option. More later. MUCH LATER EDIT: Well, the cover is certainly weeping. It's better than before, but a leak is a leak. I drained the oil and removed it. I decided to try the new cover, so I installed a new shift shaft seal and the oil filter cover and, using the same gasket, installed it. Lacking the longer screw for the far left mounting hole on the underside I found a cap screw of the proper length to use for now. after adding oil, it seems okay, but I'll check it tomorrow morning. I'm not overly hopeful. I've had enough for today.
Last edited by Seadog on Wed Mar 08, 2017 6:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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