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1964 Superhawk Project

Want to keep a Restoration Log? Post it here! You can include photos. Suggested format: One Restoration per Thread; then keep adding your updates to the same thread...
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Seadog
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Post by Seadog » Wed Aug 31, 2016 4:52 pm

Not yet, but I've looked. I did find the chart below. Looks like grayish tan is good.
LOUD MOUSE wrote:Hello Seadog.
Something just hit me!
Has anyone seen/found any actual pics of plugs that show what we should see after the LEAD additive is no longer in the gas?
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LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Wed Aug 31, 2016 7:38 pm

I wonder how many on the forum have been right or lean by the LEADED color we were accustom to?. ...
Thanks. .....................lm

Seadog wrote:Not yet, but I've looked. I did find the chart below. Looks like grayish tan is good.
LOUD MOUSE wrote:Hello Seadog.
Something just hit me!
Has anyone seen/found any actual pics of plugs that show what we should see after the LEAD additive is no longer in the gas?

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Seadog
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Post by Seadog » Thu Sep 01, 2016 9:59 am

A few, I'm sure. According to all I've read, the color test isn't a very good indicator at all when using unleaded gas. Even for leaded gas, reading the color was complicated. I think it's still useful to use color to compare mixture balance in the cylinders though.
LOUD MOUSE wrote:I wonder how many on the forum have been right or lean by the LEADED color we were accustom to?. ...
Thanks. .....................lm

dragonfly888
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Post by dragonfly888 » Fri Sep 02, 2016 1:14 pm

Thanks, guys... this has been a great learning experience !!!
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redblk63
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Post by redblk63 » Thu Sep 29, 2016 5:24 pm

Thank you for bringing up the lead/no lead effect on plug color. I had no idea. Rats! Now I need to recalibrate my eyes.

Larry

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Seadog
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Post by Seadog » Sat Mar 25, 2017 1:41 pm

Brought the Superhawk out of storage in order to get it ready for riding. When I got it ready for winter storage, I took off the carb bowls to drain all of the gas and saw particles of something or other in each. I thought at the time it was something from the gas tank, but I'd thought I'd cleaned that thoroughly. The first thing I did when I brought the bike back out was to check the petcock bowl and screen. Both were as clean as a whistle. I'm thinking the fuel line might be flaking. It appears to be original. I'll be changing it out and adding small fuel filters, but I'll clean the carbs again too.

I started to replace my aging speedo packing and, after gaining some knowledge here on the forum, glued it up today. I'll be installing it in a day or so.

I also thought that after seeing Dick Eastman's excellent project here on the forum and noting how he added vacuum ports to his carb spacers, I'd like to give it a try. I do have a Morgan Carb Tune manometer and it would be nice to sync the carbs. I know my limits though and decided I'd take an extra set of spacers and the two brass vacuum ports to a machinist for precision work. There are very few machine shops in my area; only 3 that I have found. I took the project to the first one today, but I was very surprised when he refused the work. He told me that he was concerned about the thickness of the material, doesn't have a bottoming 5mm tap and that he could not chuck the brass vacuum port to shorten the threaded portion. Jeez. If the next 2 have the same concerns, I'll have to try it myself. A bottoming tap can't be that expensive and I can figure out some sort of jig to use with my drill press. That'll be a last resort though.

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Sat Mar 25, 2017 6:17 pm

Seadog

Cannot see why your man would need a bottoming tap as he's drilling into an open area. If he doesn't drill into the inlet port you won't get a measurement.

If your worried about the adaptor sticking into the manifold put some washers on it.

G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
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