CL alternator cover modified for SuperHawk

[LOUD MOUSE]

Me either. ...............lm

Very nice work. You also confirmed why I never throw-out a cracked or damaged case-cover. Because I generally work on the CL models, I was not aware of a different diameter between the CL and CB stator-covers.

[Muddy]

Since I'm not using the kick start, I found a CL alt. cover to modify, as it has two holes, instead of three. I cut the rear portion off, leaving only the clutch actuator bore. However, I did have to set the cases up to install two locator dowels. I turned up several alum plugs to the crank and tranny bearing diameters, so that I could assemble the gutted cases correctly located to one another to mount on the mill. There was enough case parting line on each end of the engine to butt against gage blocks in the t-slots to align the cases on the mill. I then trammed the crank plug for zero-zero, and then moved over to check the trans. bore for alignment. I then put the alt cover on and kept adjusting it till the stator bore and the clutch adjuster bore were in line with the crank bore and the trans. bore - I did this with an indicator. I left out the two screws that had the locator dowels under them, and snugged the other three screws. I then bored/reamed those two screw holes after indicating them in for coordinates, then removed the cover and bored the case in these two locations for dowels.. I set the alt cover up and re-bored the 10mm dowel holes, after picking up the previously reamed screw holes. Two turned step dowels were then made, and the case ass'y went back on the mill, alignment and zeroes established, and the alt. cover installed; I then checked the stator bore to the crank, and the clutch actuator bore to the trans., both were good.
The cases, btw, were vapor blasted for me by Vapor Honing Technologies in Connelly Springs, NC. They did my cylinder, head, two case halves, oil pump, valve cover, and cam end covers - very pleased with their work. They sell their own vapor blast cabinets, as well as do customer work-reasonable prices.

Wow, I'm super envious of the skill, tools and machinery able to do this work - fantastic job.

Regards

Muddy

[Dick Eastman]

Thanks guys.
While I'm working on the stator end, I picked the best of 5 sprockets I had, and made a new bushing. I noticed all had considerable wear on the bushings. After looking at the wear patterns, I came to the conclusion that the alignment between the starter sprocket and the crank sprocket really needs to be very good, or else the sprocket stop [the small die-formed steel part mounted to the case ahead of the crank sprocket] will exert force against the outboard edge of the sprocket and cause undue wear on the sprocket bushing. The sprocket will not go outward [it's against the stop], but will move inward, and ride against the engine case. I measured .013" back and forth movement, and I believe, from wear patterns observed on all five sprockets, that the starter motor sprocket will pull the crank sprocket around.
I remedied this, first by aligning the two sprockets and then taking measurements to make an oilite thrust washer that fits against the crankshaft shoulder on the inside. The center of the crank sprocket will run against this washer and limit the inboard movement, the factory stop limiting out board travel. This will eliminate the axial torque against crank sprocket - I also gave it about .003" travel. The oilite material will take oil from the crank bearing, and fits well within the seal diameter; I also had to put a 2mm chamfer on the washer where it clears the shoulder radius of the crank. I stoned and polished the seal surface of the crank sprocket as well.
The Cl covers have two holes, and the CB has three, to accomodate the gears for forward kicking.

[Dick Eastman]

Very nice work. You also confirmed why I never throw-out a cracked or damaged case-cover. Because I generally work on the CL models, I was not aware of a different diameter between the CL and CB stator-covers.

Because the CL's kick to the rear, the cover only requires a hole for the kick start shaft and the clutch actuator hole; the CB's kick forward and need a third hole to accomodate the gears to reverse direction. The CB cases align around the stator and the kickstart bore and don't need the hollow dowels; putting a CL cover on a CB required me to install hollow dowels - I probably could have just "eyeballed" the cover and tightened down the screws, but that would have caused me a lack of sleep....

[LOUD MOUSE]

Wasn't the statement STATER COVER?
You mention the RIGHT CRANKCASE Cover.. .............lm

Very nice work. You also confirmed why I never throw-out a cracked or damaged case-cover. Because I generally work on the CL models, I was not aware of a different diameter between the CL and CB stator-covers.

Because the CL's kick to the rear, the cover only requires a hole for the kick start shaft and the clutch actuator hole; the CB's kick forward and need a third hole to accomodate the gears to reverse direction. The CB cases align around the stator and the kickstart bore and don't need the hollow dowels; putting a CL cover on a CB required me to install hollow dowels - I probably could have just "eyeballed" the cover and tightened down the screws, but that would have caused me a lack of sleep....

[Dick Eastman]

You're right, Ed, the right case cover on Cl has two holes, the CB three. The round stator cover fits both - I guess I wasn't quite sure what old scrambler was referring to. I made a new stator cover to replace the cracked old one, but my original case cover was cracked also, between the two kickstart and shaft holes [not actuator hole].

[LOUD MOUSE]

Your machine work is Top Drawer for sure. ..................lm

You're right, Ed, the right case cover on Cl has two holes, the CB three. The round stator cover fits both - I guess I wasn't quite sure what old scrambler was referring to. I made a new stator cover to replace the cracked old one, but my original case cover was cracked also, between the two kickstart and shaft holes [not actuator hole].