Dream crank becomes SuperHawk crank

james robert · Post by **james robert** » Wed Jul 13, 2016 8:33 pm

Thanks for the advice Dick I've never trammed a vertical mill before so i looked it up. Tubal Cane has a nice video on the subject now i want to go to the museum and tram the two Bridgeports there LOL

Dick Eastman · Post by **Dick Eastman** » Sat Jul 16, 2016 6:01 pm

I put my finished Dream-SuperHawk crank on the mill to check the orientation of the cam sprocket tooth to centerline of the stator keyway on the end of the crank.
I set the crank on V blocks butted to gage blocks in the table slot, using the end and center bearings of the crank. I trammed for C/L, first on the primary end of the crank, then the stator end; this established the crankshaft to be straight [it was within .0005" end to end]. Then I rotated the crank in the V's until the keyway was dead centered, and a little clay on one flywheel to keep it from wanting to move. I then moved the table to indicate the cam sprocket. The tooth was .0054" off center. Out of curiosity, I then repeated the above with my SuperHawk crank from my runner. The crank was never taken apart, and as it was from the factory. To my surprise, it was .013"off center. To translate this to degrees rotation of the cam sprocket to the stator keyway, I put a new cam chain over the sprocket, measured over the rollers to determine the center-to-center radius of the sprocket. I then plugged in my numbers, and my cam sprocket tooth was off .595 degrees, and the factory crank was off 1.281 degrees.
As a side note, when I was checking/truing my crank, using the case half, as Graham had in his crank rebuild, I noticed a couple of small dings in the bearing bores. What really works quite well to remove these is a fresh square carbide insert. It will center itself in the bore, and only remove the high spots. Just carefully move it along the surface of the bore, and you can feel it hit and remove high spots. If they are very pronounced, first use a fine swiss pattern needle file - very gingerly! Then follow it up with the carbide. This process will insure the integrity of the bore, and not remove an excess amount as with sandpaper.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:59 am

Great work and excellent photographs. I bet those Center sections were aligned by eye or quite crude tooling when they were first assembled.

G

Dick Eastman wrote:I put my finished Dream-SuperHawk crank on the mill to check the orientation of the cam sprocket tooth to centerline of the stator keyway on the end of the crank.
I set the crank on V blocks butted to gage blocks in the table slot, using the end and center bearings of the crank. I trammed for C/L, first on the primary end of the crank, then the stator end; this established the crankshaft to be straight [it was within .0005" end to end]. Then I rotated the crank in the V's until the keyway was dead centered, and a little clay on one flywheel to keep it from wanting to move. I then moved the table to indicate the cam sprocket. The tooth was .0054" off center. Out of curiosity, I then repeated the above with my SuperHawk crank from my runner. The crank was never taken apart, and as it was from the factory. To my surprise, it was .013"off center. To translate this to degrees rotation of the cam sprocket to the stator keyway, I put a new cam chain over the sprocket, measured over the rollers to determine the center-to-center radius of the sprocket. I then plugged in my numbers, and my cam sprocket tooth was off .595 degrees, and the factory crank was off 1.281 degrees.
As a side note, when I was checking/truing my crank, using the case half, as Graham had in his crank rebuild, I noticed a couple of small dings in the bearing bores. What really works quite well to remove these is a fresh square carbide insert. It will center itself in the bore, and only remove the high spots. Just carefully move it along the surface of the bore, and you can feel it hit and remove high spots. If they are very pronounced, first use a fine swiss pattern needle file - very gingerly! Then follow it up with the carbide. This process will insure the integrity of the bore, and not remove an excess amount as with sandpaper.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:59 am

Great work and excellent photographs. I bet those Center sections were aligned by eye or quite crude tooling when they were first assembled.

G

Dick Eastman wrote:I put my finished Dream-SuperHawk crank on the mill to check the orientation of the cam sprocket tooth to centerline of the stator keyway on the end of the crank.
I set the crank on V blocks butted to gage blocks in the table slot, using the end and center bearings of the crank. I trammed for C/L, first on the primary end of the crank, then the stator end; this established the crankshaft to be straight [it was within .0005" end to end]. Then I rotated the crank in the V's until the keyway was dead centered, and a little clay on one flywheel to keep it from wanting to move. I then moved the table to indicate the cam sprocket. The tooth was .0054" off center. Out of curiosity, I then repeated the above with my SuperHawk crank from my runner. The crank was never taken apart, and as it was from the factory. To my surprise, it was .013"off center. To translate this to degrees rotation of the cam sprocket to the stator keyway, I put a new cam chain over the sprocket, measured over the rollers to determine the center-to-center radius of the sprocket. I then plugged in my numbers, and my cam sprocket tooth was off .595 degrees, and the factory crank was off 1.281 degrees.
As a side note, when I was checking/truing my crank, using the case half, as Graham had in his crank rebuild, I noticed a couple of small dings in the bearing bores. What really works quite well to remove these is a fresh square carbide insert. It will center itself in the bore, and only remove the high spots. Just carefully move it along the surface of the bore, and you can feel it hit and remove high spots. If they are very pronounced, first use a fine swiss pattern needle file - very gingerly! Then follow it up with the carbide. This process will insure the integrity of the bore, and not remove an excess amount as with sandpaper.

Dick Eastman · Post by **Dick Eastman** » Sun Jul 17, 2016 7:19 am

G-Man wrote:Great work and excellent photographs. I bet those Center sections were aligned by eye or quite crude tooling when they were first assembled.

G

Thanks. When I followed your build, I remember you had to "sneak up" on the rod side clearances - the kinetic energy stored in the press would not allow that last few thousandths to be made to dial the clearance in - I had to put a calculated spacer in between the wheels, right at the edge to keep the wheels off the rod. It took several attempts before I ended up with .004" and .007".
I was surprised the factory center was so far out, Also, my concern was that the 74 serrations in the center journal pin would want to "track", once I indexed the crank pins 180 degrees - it may have a little, as I was still .005" off.
I still want to bolt up the stator and check the RO as an assembly - the stator end of the crank, on the tapered section, runs out less than .001" [the primary end is .0003" RO].
I can see why Honda quit selling component crank parts to dealers - it takes time to do one correctly.

james robert · Post by **james robert** » Sun Jul 17, 2016 10:55 am

I love this thread, It has been very educational. I have wondered how they pressed the crank at the factory and kept everything in alignment. Apparently they didn't completely. I like your idea about using the carbide to dress the bearing bore.

Dick Eastman · Post by **Dick Eastman** » Sun Jul 17, 2016 11:26 am

james robert wrote:I love this thread, It has been very educational. I have wondered how they pressed the crank at the factory and kept everything in alignment. Apparently they didn't completely. I like your idea about using the carbide to dress the bearing bore.

Thanks, James. Go to G Man's restoration thread - lots of photos and detailed dialog. There are many others on this forum, his comes to mind, however, because he got into crank rebuilding with lots of photos.
You mention your museum has mills - what is it?