several q's about CL 250 sleeves

[G-Man]

Dick

I'm envious now......... :-)

It certailnly looks a nice strong and capable piece of kit.

G

Dick

Measurements from a NOS sleeve

Top flange 68.85 diameter x 3.6 thick
Main sleeve diameter 62.04 x 77.8 high
Lower sleeve diameter 60.75 x 22 high

All dimensions in mm

Hope that helps

G

Thanks, Graham
The lathe is an Eisen Machinery 1236G, and is a gap bed, 12" x 36", 240V, single phase. Wt, with cabinets, about 800 lbs. I had space considerations, and really don't need anything larger, or 3 phase. The spindle, ways, and tailstock barrel are all heat treated. Spindle is a D1-4 Camlock, with the ID being a #5 MT; tailstock #3 MT. I bought a 5C collet closer with it, as I have a set of 5c collets from a 1/16 to 1", in 1/64 increments. Has a 6" 3-jaw scroll chuck, and an 8" 4-jaw independent. The quality is very nice.
Took me 3 days to clean and detail, as it had a brown cosmoline on all exposed surfaces - you can see it in the photo [except for the bed ways, which were cleaned to be able to move the carriage to balance for lifting], took all the chucks apart, too, to clean and de-burr, and lube.

[OldScrambler]

About sleeve thickness...........for the street........about 1.25mm minimum

for a racing application.........about 0.80mm but don't expect many hours.

Heat transfer is a consideration........but warping and cracking is more serious.

[Hamamatsu Nippon]

About sleeve thickness...........for the street........about 1.25mm minimum

for a racing application.........about 0.80mm but don't expect many hours.

Heat transfer is a consideration........but warping and cracking is more serious.

Thanks for that OldScrambler.

[Dick Eastman]

I finished the sleeve fixture for 305 sleeves. I found a D1-4 back plate that fit my lathe spindle nose and had to do some slight machining to get it to fit properly. I then semi finished the sleeve fixture in my 4-jaw chuck, and then mounted it to the back plate, and finished it as an assembly. I left .002" in the bore, and then honed it to fit the sleeves. I gave it .001" clearance over the sleeve OD. I then tapped four 10-32 holes in the face for the button head screws to catch the head of the sleeve to hold the sleeve in the fixture. What I am really pleased with is the consistency with which the fixture mounts on the spindle nose - repeatedly .0005" total indicator reading - no more indicating each cylinder in, and no distortion from chuck jaws, since the clamping is laterally rather than radially.

[Dick Eastman]

I also finished my center stand mods. The stand bolt holes were badly elongated in the frame, so I had to do some careful layout and open the frame holes up to accept some steel bushing I turned up. The holes in the old stand were not much better, so I picked up a NOS stand and NOS bolts. What surprised me was that Honda made the bolt shoulders about .546" and the stand bores about .566". I turned the bolt shoulders down to 7/16" and got two sintered bronze bushings with a 7/16" ID and a .565" OD. I pressed these onto the shoulder bolts, and did a little machining for clean up, length, and a grease groove. I put a grease zert in the head of the bolt, and cross-drilled to that from the groove. The most difficult part was making numerous small adjustments to get the correct side to side clearance in the stand to frame, as well as making sure the stand uprights both touched frame stop simultaneously. I then took the ass'y [frame/stand] to my welder and tacked, checked for smooth operation, and final weld - he took his time so as not to heat-distort anything. BTW, the button screws in the ends of the bolts replace the cotters, since the steel frame bushings are tapped 10x1.25mm. This should greatly diminish wear, and be easy to lube. As I found out, good used center stands are very difficult to find, and the clearances Honda used for production purposes and ease of ass'y just makes wear more rapid, especially a working part that gets very little attention and really takes a lot of load.

[G-Man]

Beautiful work on both jobs, Dick.

Really good to see your devotion to making these old bikes better and ready for the 21st century.

Manufacturing bikes and other things is a constant juggling act between price, performance and longevity. It's fascinating to see Honda get better at that compromise over the years......

Keep the projects and pictures coming...... :-)

G

I also finished my center stand mods. The stand bolt holes were badly elongated in the frame, so I had to do some careful layout and open the frame holes up to accept some steel bushing I turned up. The holes in the old stand were not much better, so I picked up a NOS stand and NOS bolts. What surprised me was that Honda made the bolt shoulders about .546" and the stand bores about .566". I turned the bolt shoulders down to 7/16" and got two sintered bronze bushings with a 7/16" ID and a .565" OD. I pressed these onto the shoulder bolts, and did a little machining for clean up, length, and a grease groove. I put a grease zert in the head of the bolt, and cross-drilled to that from the groove. The most difficult part was making numerous small adjustments to get the correct side to side clearance in the stand to frame, as well as making sure the stand uprights both touched frame stop simultaneously. I then took the ass'y [frame/stand] to my welder and tacked, checked for smooth operation, and final weld - he took his time so as not to heat-distort anything. BTW, the button screws in the ends of the bolts replace the cotters, since the steel frame bushings are tapped 10x1.25mm. This should greatly diminish wear, and be easy to lube. As I found out, good used center stands are very difficult to find, and the clearances Honda used for production purposes and ease of ass'y just makes wear more rapid, especially a working part that gets very little attention and really takes a lot of load.

[G-Man]

Would you like to sell the muffler brackets that came off that frame?

G