1964 CL 72 oil leak

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:14 am

Remove the key and the shaft seal area will be OK. ................lm

G-Man wrote:I suspect that someone has plugged that hole from the inside. As LM suggests, you would expect to see a lot more oil if it was unplugged. The oil would run along the shaft and be flung onto the back of the rotor.

It is a common mod for race bikes (where the starter is removed) to block that hole with a brass rod, or fill it with epoxy / JB weld.

From your description it sounds like it is the crank seal that is leaking. Follow LM's advice and chamfer the edge of the bore that the seal fits in. I also like to put some thin tape ove things like the key slot and any other sharp edges when inserting the seal.

G

connor1 wrote:Yes I have lubed the chain. I use PJ1 for o ring chains. Advertised not to "fly off".

However, in the rear rim a good amount of semi clean engine oil has been collecting, this appears to be coming from the chain.

The clean oil leak that is dripping off the stator is fairly high in volume. A drip every 7 to 10 seconds when running. Do you feel this would be the crank seal only?

connor1 · Post by **connor1** » Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:23 am

OK guys, I will replace the seal and not worry about the hole in the shaft.

Do you recommend using some type of sealant on the outside edge of the seal as the PO did?

Also I was planning on making a tool out of a bent and sharpened nail to help pry the old sea out. Any thoughts on that approach or better ideas?

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:36 am

The seal has steel on the inside area and you can puncture it near the outer edge with a sharp punch and pry it out.
I don't recommend a sealant on the edge as it has been my experience (from others who did) that it actually acts like a slickum rather than a stickum. (your choice)
As mentioned by G you will want to taper (sharpen) a piece of brass rod and put JB weld in the hole then hammer that rod into the hole and file away anything sticking out.
A last question is have you cleaned that rotor and rotor area before you took the pics?. ..............lm

connor1 wrote:OK guys, I will replace the seal and not worry about the hole in the shaft.

Do you recommend using some type of sealant on the outside edge of the seal as the PO did?

Also I was planning on making a tool out of a bent and sharpened nail to help pry the old sea out. Any thoughts on that approach or better ideas?

connor1 · Post by **connor1** » Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:22 pm

No I did NOT clean the rotor before pics were taken. I was surprised how dry and clean the rotor was.....

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:40 pm

OK.
Now I don't think replacing that seal will cure a oil leak as that area is clean.
I would plug the hole in the crank and go from there. ........................lm

connor1 wrote:No I did NOT clean the rotor before pics were taken. I was surprised how dry and clean the rotor was.....

connor1 · Post by **connor1** » Sun Feb 28, 2016 1:29 pm

So I put JB weld in the hole and then punched in a 2 cm piece of brass stock.

Still had a high volume oil leak...

So I decided to try to run the bike with the kickstarter cover off to try to see where the oil is coming from.
I posted the video to You Tube here--

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaT-oYxbsSs

You can see that at high revs in third gear, oil flies off the chain and accumulates on the bottom of the case... Looks like the eals for the transmission shaft and sprocket are the issue here....

Your thoughts?

Any tips on removal of the sprocket and the two seals?

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Sun Feb 28, 2016 4:04 pm

Undo the two small bolts holding the sprocket retainer, then you can remove the sprocket and chain. The small seal surrounds the clutch pushrod and the larger one is behind the sprocket.

It may be obvious which one is leaking bit it is worth checking the surface of the clutch pushrod where it is contacted by the seal.

G