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Squealing noise around stator and slow return to idles

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Sun Nov 08, 2015 3:14 am

Well on the way, now...

G
Brickyard wrote:Pistons slid into cylinders like butter
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F

LOUD MOUSE
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Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:57 am

You may want to remove the cam chain tensioner so you can install the chain easier. .............lm
Brickyard wrote:Pistons slid into cylinders like butter

Hoosier Tom
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Post by Hoosier Tom » Sun Nov 08, 2015 9:58 am

LOUD MOUSE wrote:Pretty close Tom.
I found under "UPPER CRANK CASE AND CHANGE" at the bottom of page 8 then to page 9 of the CLYMER shop manual for C/CB72/77 bikes. (ALL ACTUAL HONDA ISSUE INFORMATION)
D6XP1.0 TORQUE, 3.616-5.063ftlb.
D8XP1.25 TORQUE, 12.29-14.46ftlb. .............
Thanks for clarifying with the Honda spec Ed. I was going from memory. When I did a 160 motor for a fella I looked in my Glenn's Honda book for Head torque values and noticed it had 305 torque values also. It had 6-9 ft/lbs for crankcase 6mm bolts. 6-8 ft/lbs stuck in my head from that. I just hand tighten the 6mm case bolts and nuts by feel. The last thing anybody wants to do is strip the soft case threads on a bolt!

HT
Attachments
P1010126.JPG
P1010126.JPG (442.25 KiB) Viewed 1707 times

LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sun Nov 08, 2015 10:03 am

Good find Tom. ..................lm
Hoosier Tom wrote:
LOUD MOUSE wrote:Pretty close Tom.
I found under "UPPER CRANK CASE AND CHANGE" at the bottom of page 8 then to page 9 of the CLYMER shop manual for C/CB72/77 bikes. (ALL ACTUAL HONDA ISSUE INFORMATION)
D6XP1.0 TORQUE, 3.616-5.063ftlb.
D8XP1.25 TORQUE, 12.29-14.46ftlb. .............
Thanks for clarifying with the Honda spec Ed. I was going from memory. When I did a 160 motor for a fella I looked in my Glenn's Honda book for Head torque values and noticed it had 305 torque values also. It had 6-9 ft/lbs for crankcase 6mm bolts. 6-8 ft/lbs stuck in my head from that. I just hand tighten the 6mm case bolts and nuts by feel. The last thing anybody wants to do is strip the soft case threads on a bolt!

HT

Brickyard
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Post by Brickyard » Sun Nov 08, 2015 10:20 am

LM,

Good point. I removed it right after snapping the photo.
LOUD MOUSE wrote:You may want to remove the cam chain tensioner so you can install the chain easier. .............lm
Brickyard wrote:Pistons slid into cylinders like butter

Brickyard
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Location: North Florida

Post by Brickyard » Sun Nov 08, 2015 11:08 am

Decided to take 2 steps back vs pushing forward because if G, LM or HT had known of these issues, they would've had me fix them.

First: I never cleaned up my cylinder walls. In the right, problematic cylinder, theres a little more going on then I can just ignore. I think the metal bit protruding may be from the bad right piston. I'm going to have these professionally cleaned up, but what do I tell the machinist I need? Keep in mind the new piston and rings are not oversized.

Second: What I thought was a stretching case bolt was actually the threads in the upper case being stripped out. After putting a missing washer on the bolt and attempting to re install the bolt, it spun freely, and I ended up pulling the threading out with the bolt. The little devil on my should is saying "eh, dont worry about it, the starter motor is holding this corner of the cases together." How would you fix?

While I wait for answers, I'm going to get this little guy on the road. The neighbor kids are going to go nuts when its done!
Attachments
electric Razor drift kart with a 196cc engine bolted in the back.
electric Razor drift kart with a 196cc engine bolted in the back.
IMG_0321.JPG (113.65 KiB) Viewed 1677 times
Stripped case thread on most forward, right side.
Stripped case thread on most forward, right side.
IMG_0320.JPG (100.88 KiB) Viewed 1677 times
See the bit of metal protruding?
See the bit of metal protruding?
IMG_0319.JPG (492 KiB) Viewed 1677 times

LOUD MOUSE
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Posts: 7817
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sun Nov 08, 2015 11:24 am

That looks to be aluminum!?
Ya may want to try what we did with racing 2 strokes that seized a piston.
Using a good pair of rubber gloves and rag we applied straight MURIATIC ACID to remove the aluminum from the steel then washed with dish soap and lots of water.
Followed with a BALL STONE HONE. ............lm

Brickyard wrote:Decided to take 2 steps back vs pushing forward because if G, LM or HT had known of these issues, they would've had me fix them.

First: I never cleaned up my cylinder walls. In the right, problematic cylinder, theres a little more going on then I can just ignore. I think the metal bit protruding may be from the bad right piston. I'm going to have these professionally cleaned up, but what do I tell the machinist I need? Keep in mind the new piston and rings are not oversized.

Second: What I thought was a stretching case bolt was actually the threads in the upper case being stripped out. After putting a missing washer on the bolt and attempting to re install the bolt, it spun freely, and I ended up pulling the threading out with the bolt. The little devil on my should is saying "eh, dont worry about it, the starter motor is holding this corner of the cases together." How would you fix?

While I wait for answers, I'm going to get this little guy on the road. The neighbor kids are going to go nuts when its done!

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