Squealing noise around stator and slow return to idles

[G-Man]

Brickyard

Those look a little bit the aluminum washer that goes under the blind M6 (10mm head) nut on the bottom of the cases.

You only need one.

If they are larger they may be for the head studs.

G

Cases went together nice and smooth, nice lip of sealant around edges, case nuts and bolts are torqued and snug.

Calling it a night since after I installed shift drum, kick starter parts, and gearshift spindle, I had 4 washers left over. I can't remember if those were already on the bottom of my cleaning can when I dropped the clutch parts in the cleaning bucket, or not.

-_-

[Brickyard]

G,

Thank you sir, that's a priceless piece of info.

Brickyard

The torque spec of any bolt is based upon the cross-sectional area and the material properties of the bolt and the mating part.

Because the material is the same for both, a 6mm bolt (10mm head) needs just over half the torque of an 8 mm bolt (14mm head). The ratio is 6 squared divided by 8 squared ...... which simplifies to 9/16

Good luck with the rest of your assembly.

G

Used a rubber glove and did my best to evenly apply sealant to mating surfaces as LM suggested in the past, but stayed away from the crescent shaped oil port up front.

Torqued 14mm nuts to 15 ft./lbs, but when i attempted to do the same for the 10mm nuts/bolts, i backed off after hearing a couple studs stretch.

Should these 10mm bolts/nuts be torqued down to 15ft./lbs, or should they be "snug?'

The small nuts/bolts do not get torqued to the same spec as the large ones. Snugly works. I think the shop manual specs 6-8 ft/lbs.

HT

[Brickyard]

G,

For the umpteenth time, you save me from disaster. I forgot 4 washers on 4 case bolts.

Brickyard

Those look a little bit the aluminum washer that goes under the blind M6 (10mm head) nut on the bottom of the cases.

You only need one.

If they are larger they may be for the head studs.

G

Cases went together nice and smooth, nice lip of sealant around edges, case nuts and bolts are torqued and snug.

Calling it a night since after I installed shift drum, kick starter parts, and gearshift spindle, I had 4 washers left over. I can't remember if those were already on the bottom of my cleaning can when I dropped the clutch parts in the cleaning bucket, or not.

-_-

[LOUD MOUSE]

Pretty close Tom.
I found under "UPPER CRANK CASE AND CHANGE" at the bottom of page 8 then to page 9 of the CLYMER shop manual for C/CB72/77 bikes. (ALL ACTUAL HONDA ISSUE INFORMATION)
D6XP1.0 TORQUE, 3.616-5.063ftlb.
D8XP1.25 TORQUE, 12.29-14.46ftlb. ....................lm

Used a rubber glove and did my best to evenly apply sealant to mating surfaces as LM suggested in the past, but stayed away from the crescent shaped oil port up front.

Torqued 14mm nuts to 15 ft./lbs, but when i attempted to do the same for the 10mm nuts/bolts, i backed off after hearing a couple studs stretch.

Should these 10mm bolts/nuts be torqued down to 15ft./lbs, or should they be "snug?'

The small nuts/bolts do not get torqued to the same spec as the large ones. Snugly works. I think the shop manual specs 6-8 ft/lbs.

HT

[G-Man]

Brickyard

No cigar but at least it jogged your memory.... :-)

G

G,

For the umpteenth time, you save me from disaster. I forgot 4 washers on 4 case bolts.

Brickyard

Those look a little bit the aluminum washer that goes under the blind M6 (10mm head) nut on the bottom of the cases.

You only need one.

If they are larger they may be for the head studs.

G

Cases went together nice and smooth, nice lip of sealant around edges, case nuts and bolts are torqued and snug.

Calling it a night since after I installed shift drum, kick starter parts, and gearshift spindle, I had 4 washers left over. I can't remember if those were already on the bottom of my cleaning can when I dropped the clutch parts in the cleaning bucket, or not.

-_-

[Brickyard]

Pistons slid into cylinders like butter

[Brickyard]

knock pin and o ring are accounted for. They're in the head.