apeonwheels wrote:I drove both. I assume that when I hit the left side the right side bearing hits the right cover which is aluminum and therefore it is more soft. Therefore if I support the right cam with a metal hammer and hit the left side, I have a better chance to shorten the cam because I can exert higher force on the cam (it does not recoil from the right cover). Just a thought, I`ll give it a shot.
What you are saying about the cams is very interesting. How can I figure if they are racing cams? How would that affect the otherwise stock engine?
First start with major oil leakage
If you could send a pic(S) of them looking down from the top and turn the cams a couple of times I'll be able to tell. ..............lm
..........effecting the engine.................The profile of a race-cam will compress the valve-springs a bit more (lift) and hold the valves open longer (duration) Depending on how well the cam is degreed-in to the motor.......sometimes at TDC, sometimes a few degrees advanced or retarded..........the motor will have added power in the mid and upper rpm ranges............but if poorly installed may have less power in the low end and cause ignition timing problems.........as well as bent valve stems and / or burned exhaust valves.
Good for wanted power increase...........bad for wear and tear. The major wear item is the rocker pads.........followed by the rocker pins and the respective cam-tower holders. It is strongly suggested that the rocker-pads be hard-welded to provide a new and harder surface to match the cam. Most performance cams have IDs stamped on the shaft or ends of the shaft. Your cam appears to be a bit 'fat' in the photo. Compare the steepness of the ramps on the lobes as well as the rounded top versus a more pointed top on the lobes. If you or Ed have no interest in your cam, I do. BTW........nice sanitary build..........but please change the backward tank badge..wink,wink
Wow, these putative race cams of mine, that I didn`t even know of, generated a huge interest :) This picture was taken when I assembled the head about a year ago so I can`t measure it right now. On the weekend I`ll try to fix this positioning issue without taking the engine out of the frame. I have further pics about the rebuilding process with some more images about the cams, they are located here on this Hungarian website in case you guys are interested. They are in Hungarian, sorry about that, just focus on the photos.
http://www.sportmotor.hu/motoros_kepek/ ... =98105&p=2 http://www.sportmotor.hu/motoros_kepek/ ... 105234&p=3 Here`s the original engine from that I had to replace almost everything: http://www.sportmotor.hu/motoros_kepek/ ... /?dr=94320
Years back race cams were installed and did last about the same time as stock if you kept the oil clean and timing spot on.
A bit tough to tune for street riding but back then there were a lot of these bikes and other makes at the Red Light so if you did the cam work you could pull most other bikes at the Green Light. (GO). We didn't even try to beat a X6 Hustler at a light as you didn't stand a chance. The Yamaha bikes were a bit tough also. ................lm
Yeah, two stroke is not beatable with these four-stroke twins in acceleration. So, did you have the chance to take a look at the pics and are you sure now that these are not stock cams? The problem now is that I won`t see the difference since I`ve never ridden any of these bikes.. I won`t be able to tell if the performance is better or worse compared to a stock one.
As near as I can see they are racing grind.
Your only problem will be tuning the idle to be smooth. ..................lm
Thanks, if I can fix the leaking without taking out the cams I leave it as is. I had a VT500 Honda with two sets of cams, one was better for the higher performance, but only at higher rpm-s, in the expense of the torque at lower rpm-s. I guess it is the same thing here, right? Honda discovered the adjustable valve timing system decades later, unfortunately..
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