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Squealing noise around stator and slow return to idles

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Brickyard
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Location: North Florida

Post by Brickyard » Wed Oct 14, 2015 5:41 pm

G-Man wrote:Brickyard

Those pistons look pretty nasty. The oil ways you show in your video are there to catch oil flowing back down from the top end (cam tunnel) to provide a bit of feed for the main bearings. The main oil source to the main bearings is direct from the oil filter and is related with the oilway you point to at the front of the top crankcase.

I suspect you have debris in your oilways and this debris could be blocking flow into the crank and then up to the cylinder / piston area. The piston / cylinder lubrication comes as oil thrown of the crank / big end.

Image

You really need to strip the motor and clean all those oilways tyou can find as well as cleaning

the the centrifugal oil filter and filter screen around the oil pump. If you can, you should get the crank stripped and cleaned, as well, No oil to that piston probably means that the oilways in the crank are blocked.

Image

The debris from the 'dry' piston is going to make the situation worse.

G


Brickyard wrote:Videos will have to do until I can post pictures...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vps9ClM ... e=youtu.be
G, as much as I don't want to do it, with your advice, my shopping list for this bottom end rebuild is:

1. Complete engine gasket kit
2. Piston kit
3. Hondabond

Is there anything I'm missing that you absolutely wouldn't do without? And that's beside known worn parts I haven't seen yet. Maybe there're parts in there you already know are going to need replaced?

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Thu Oct 15, 2015 3:22 am

Brickyard

I would start with the oil filter and work from there. Maybe you can work out wha is happening at that stage. As for pistons, it would be a good idea to get the bores inspected / measured first. Take off the pistons and try and feel what shape the crank is in. You may be lick with what you find.

G
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Brickyard
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Posts: 135
Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:49 pm
Location: North Florida

Post by Brickyard » Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:43 am

G-Man wrote:Brickyard

I would start with the oil filter and work from there. Maybe you can work out wha is happening at that stage. As for pistons, it would be a good idea to get the bores inspected / measured first. Take off the pistons and try and feel what shape the crank is in. You may be lick with what you find.

G
Will do. I'm out of town until Monday and the parts I've listed are on order. I'll get right to it when I'm back home.

Brickyard
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Posts: 135
Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:49 pm
Location: North Florida

Post by Brickyard » Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:44 pm

Split the cases. Going to remove the internals and bring the cases to an auto shop for hot tank cleaning, but not before I clear these ports...

Anything wrong with me hot tanking the crank shaft and or transmission gears as a whole assembly?
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Brickyard
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Posts: 135
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Location: North Florida

Post by Brickyard » Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:52 pm

Wiseco brand piston kit from classichondarestoration.com
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Brickyard
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Posts: 135
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Location: North Florida

Post by Brickyard » Tue Oct 20, 2015 9:02 pm

Cam roller parts in every crevice...
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Brickyard
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Location: North Florida

Post by Brickyard » Tue Oct 20, 2015 9:56 pm

Tear down wasn't as bad as I thought.
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