When I got the bike, I noticed that the throttle/starter/winker housing was loose and would spin on the handle bars about a quarter inch in either direction.I figured it needed to be tighten down but that I would do that when I changed out my throttle cable.
I did that last night and saw that, sometime in the past, someone had drilled a new hole that didn't line up with the aluminum housing so that the wires were either being pinched when tighten or rubbing against the hole and wearing away the wires sheathing when loose. I used electronical tape and fixed all the damaged (hopefully) I also ground a notch in the aluminum housing to allow the wires to come through without pinching. To grind that notch, I disconnected the starter button.
When I got the bike last week, it started fine. No issues. Hit the button and it'd start up within about 5 seconds. After changing the throttle cable, I'd turn the key and it would start (no pressing of the button just turning the key) so I assume that it's shorting out somewhere. This started happening after I changed the cable but before I disconnected the starter button. So I'm guessing I still have a short. But, I'm also not sure I put the start button back together correctly.
Any suggestions
CP77-E starter button
Experience is that thing you get just after you needed it most......
Did you notch the top or the bottom half? The top is the rare part. G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F
Luckily, the bottom... I guess I barely got away with that.
I'm rewiring the handlebar assemblies now. The right side has the starter and winkers. The left side has the horn and the high/low/off for the headlights? Off is for fast charging I think? That leaves me two questions. 1) what's the switch on the headlight bucket? 2) is there an engine kill switch. Actually, I've got one more question. 3) the left assembly is missing the switch, is it basically the same switch as the winker switch on the inside? Can i find any similar era switch and for it in? Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
1) headlamp switch is the 'real' on-off switch for the headlamp, and controls the output of the alternator, switching in extra coils to 'match' the additional load. The 'off' position on the hi-lo beam switch is a kind of 'neutral' which does what you say. Switching that switch to off with the main switch on cuts the lights but leaves the extra coils in circuit to 'boost' the battery. Don't leave it there for long as that will over charge the battery. 2) No engine kill switch 3) Yes - you can still get the switches NOS http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb77-general ... ml#results G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
