Bob Dale wrote:No, I did not replace the cam chain. It appeared to fit snugly and had no visible wear so I thought it was good. Yes, I did have the tensioner out and have done nothing with it other than put it back in. It looked fine as well. Yes, I have completely cleaned all of the clutch plates. They dont completely release as evidenced by the back wheel turning if the transmission is put into gear while on the stand but you cant feel any forward pressure when sitting on the bike. I have never been able to ride it long enough to see if it gets worse as it heats up. I did check the rocker adjuster screws and they seemed fine but again, they may be cheap enough to just replace and be done with it. Do you recommend replacing the cam chain at this point?
Houston 1966 305 Dream Log
As ya can get new ones for $35.00+- it would be a good idea. Ya check the stretch of the chain by laying it on it's side and seeing how much it can BOW up/down. Your choice but I would. ...............................lm
Click on the PM or Email button at the bottom of his posts.
Oilleak
http://www.oilleak.net Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither liberty nor security. --- Ben Franklin 2 out of 3 is bad?Loud Mouse, or anyone else that can help...
I pulled the engine as you suggested. From the way it appears to me I have 2 of the 3 criteria for correct timing. The flywheel is set to "T", resulting in the cam sprocket being level but the mark at the points is still off slightly. I did not know about checking the mark at the points when I reassembled it last time but I was sure I had gotten the sprocket set level. See pics below. I have checked to springs by twisting the cam and it seems to move freely and return to position correctly when released. If I am interpreting everything correctly it seems like the timing might need to be adjusted towards advanced a little bit. Could this be weak springs? Is there any adjustment that can be done? Other ideas?
Since the timing chain idea didnt work out I have now reassembled the motor as it was but with one modification. I opened up the guide channels on the point plate to allow it to rotate further around than had previously been possible. Early indications are that it is an improvement. While the timing light still doesnt quite fire at exactly the "T" mark, it is now about halfway between T and II...much better than before. It advances to about II upon revving. The smell of urnburnt gas is gone and the plugs dont seem to be loading up after 15 minutes or so of running. I will try to get it rideable this week to see how it does under load but so far so good.
Nice to know that although I've ask you 2 times to contact me directly you have now changed something that HONDA never did. I'm pleased that you are smarter than HONDA to get your HONDA running. I personally hope that the HONDA engineers will accept you into their design and problem curing hall of fame. I will not offer my ideas to Bob Dale again. ....................LM
Excuse me, but I have tried to contact you directly by email (via the email link on this site) twice and have posted additional questions to you elsewhere on this forum in an attempt to obtain your guidance, all of which remain unanswered. I have been waiting for replies for close to 2 weeks now. I have also intentionally not mentioned at any time that the diagnosis provided by you was 100% incorrect and cost me hours of time on a wild goose chase. I chose not to do so in apprecaition for the efforts of yourself and all who choose to volunteer opinions on this site but maybe you should take a humility check. Another member repsonded to one of my posts with his opinion that the points/shaft issue was trivial...his words..so I proceeded with the only course of action that remained in the absence of your wisdom. It seems like the only thing that surpases that wisdom may be your arrogance. Amazing! Your last posting is completely out of line and uncalled for.
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