connectors

modelman · Post by **modelman** » Wed Aug 05, 2015 8:00 am

Got the new cabling, sheathing, tape, connectors & shrouds, in readiness to start making the new wiring loom when I noticed that the original soft-clear shrouds are somehow 'welded' to the cable, looking closely, they appear to have been in a sort of clamp or possibly a heated plier as they have a flattened area.
Anyone know how this is/was done??
I might experiment with an old pair of pliers heated over a burner to see if I can replicate it.
Any suggestions??

DianneB · Post by **DianneB** » Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:40 am

They were, indeed, crimped under heat.

I would be inclined to use heat-shrink tubing and just heat the end affixed to the wire.

modelman · Post by **modelman** » Thu Aug 06, 2015 2:33 am

Thanks for that, but I think I will try & mimic the original 'heat-seal' crimp.

Can't find any sort of tool on the net, so will try & make something.

DianneB · Post by **DianneB** » Thu Aug 06, 2015 2:39 am

If you are going to try hot-melt, you will need good temperature control - maybe start with an adjustable soldering iron (http://cs-sales.net/sl30.html)

You will also have to find the right kind of plastic tube - not all plastics will form that way and bond.

If you find something that works, let us know.

modelman · Post by **modelman** » Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:50 am

Tried a few ideas without much joy, then I managed this: not a million miles from original, I think I'll settle for that.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Aug 06, 2015 11:01 am

That looks excellent!

Can you share the details?

G

modelman · Post by **modelman** » Thu Aug 06, 2015 1:56 pm

Not very sophisticated I'm afraid, the the bullets, sockets & shrouds are from Vehicle wiring products ( for Japanese bikes) & the latter are made from a very soft-clear vinyl like material.
I tried flame-warming various grips & pliers, but the vinyl simply deformed then sprung right back to original!!
Then tried flame-warming the sheath itself, but as soon as it got to a deformable temp, it started to burn & 'brown' from the flame'heat.
Next up I fired a paint stripping heat-gun as I rotated the connector, this got it really hot & 'squishy', a cheapo crimp-tool was then used to crush the almost liquid sheath, held for 5-10 seconds & that was it.
BTW, they are crimped first, then well soldered, never been a fan of crimp only connectors.

Its a bit micky-mouse, & probably NOT fully welded to the insulation as per original, but it doesn't move if its given a good 'tug', so I'm relativity happy with that.