Thought I was going to do this about a week ago as all seemed well, was starting on 1st kick and idling. But then I wouldn't start. Pulled carbs apart, cleaned, removed the inline gas filters (in case they were the problem) check point gap, ignition timing was /is ballpark. Turns out the battery had run down to nothing. Charged it up and started right up.
I put in the rubber tubes to the old air filters, and took a ride first time out of the neighborhood. I got thru all gears, although shifting was a bit less than ideal but the bike had been sitting for sometime so I will cut it some slack. But it felt powerless, the only way I could pick up speed was by shifting.
Pulled the plugs when I got back, Right side nice brown, Left side blackish a bit wet looking. Air screw is 1 1/4 out. I think I'll try it again w/o air filters and see how it goes.
I read Ed Moores Recipe, but didn't seem to get a lot of info from it.
-Forrest
67 CL77 maiden voyageI checked it after the ride and had a good spark. Just took another short ride w/o air filters, felt about the same. Shifting felt bit smoother (maybe I'm getting use to it). I have new points and condenser. I set the back plate in the center and adjusted the points to 14 when they were most open. Carbs are clean, new o-rings and I replaced one insulator for one that had a crack. The plugs after the 2nd ride were the same, right side nice brown, left side wet. I removed both plugs, grounded the left side plug so I could move the wire around while I was checking for spark and the spark looked very healthy, wire didn't seem bad. The left cylinder was dripping from the left exhaust a bit which I'm guessing means the gas is getting in the cylinder, but not being used, despite the spark. ? -Forrest
Your way of adjusting the points was how it was done when these bikes were new on the market.
Every month I paid to have mine adjusted and every time the mechanic stated, "that's as good as I can get them!". If you did as you said you are missing the big picture. I recommend you read it again and follow it to the "T". After all it's your engine and you are having a problem. ........lm <<<<<<<<<I read Ed Moores Recipe, but didn't seem to get a lot of info from it. >>>>>>>
Ok,
Back to the recipe. Did the carb adjusts. Then the Recipe says to adjust Right points at .014. What I am assuming here is to get the cam at a high point and adjust to .014. Did that. Now Hitched up the light to R points and ground, key on, stator at F light is on with the cam mark pointing down. With the plate full left and full right the light is still on. I have to go to the double line on the stator before the light goes out. I might note, plugs are dangling from the leads, if it makes a difference. Just looked and I had the left one grounded. Not sure how they should be. -Forrest
What work have you done wit this engine? Rebuild/Take head off/New rings?
I'll go by memory so I believe as you turn the rotor clockwise you want the light to come on at "T" and it will stay on for part of a revolution. You don't care if it does as the important thing is it COMES ON AT "T". And you have locked the plate to the head. Turn rotor clockwise and move light to left points and adjust points to light on at "LT" and lock points. The timing will change at times as you tighten the screws so you will need to "tighten/adjust" until the timing is Dead ON. .............lm
Ed - I think "T" should be "F".
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