1964 CA77 Restoration

Seadog · Post by **Seadog** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:46 am

Front fender, fork, tool shelf, headlight bucket and air cleaner door dropped off at the painter. Little was done to the frame when I got there. I'm headed back this afternoon.

First half of the chain case stripped and in the electrolysis tank for de-rusting.

deafanddiabetic · Post by **deafanddiabetic** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 11:53 am

Hey SeaDog,

I used that same DupliColor aluminum colored paint on my bits and pieces. It actually looks very natural, I love it.

I basically roughed up the surfaces a bit and applied it, quick and easy. But it doesn't seem very tough, it scratches easily and tarnishes when I clean it with motorcycle "turd polisher".

Did you clear coat yours or anything?

Seadog · Post by **Seadog** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 12:24 pm

deafanddiabetic wrote:Hey SeaDog,

I used that same DupliColor aluminum colored paint on my bits and pieces. It actually looks very natural, I love it.

I basically roughed up the surfaces a bit and applied it, quick and easy. But it doesn't seem very tough, it scratches easily and tarnishes when I clean it with motorcycle "turd polisher".

Did you clear coat yours or anything?

I like the color too, but Im sorry to hear that it's not durable. I would have thought that an engine paint would be. I guess time will tell. I did not use clear coat.

48lesco · Post by **48lesco** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 3:40 pm

Yes, that cap screw in your clutch adjuster is custom. It's supposed to be an M6 hex bolt. I've used VHT SP127 "Universal Aluminum" engine paint with good success, but it's not very fuel resistant until you bake it on. After that, it's very durable.

Seadog · Post by **Seadog** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 5:04 pm

48lesco wrote:Yes, that cap screw in your clutch adjuster is custom. It's supposed to be an M6 hex bolt. I've used VHT SP127 "Universal Aluminum" engine paint with good success, but it's not very fuel resistant until you bake it on. After that, it's very durable.

Thanks 48lesco; I'll replace the cap screw with a bolt, but I do think the modified cap screw is kind of funky.

I'd read here on the forum about the VHT paint - probably one of your posts - but decided against it because I also read that it was necessary to bake it in an electric oven and I don't have one. Something about humidity in a gas oven?

In other news, I went back to the paint shop and ended up retrieving all of the primed pieces - the fork and the front fender. Because I couldn't tell them what kind of primer was on them, they said that they would need to strip them and re-prime. Since I can do that just as good as they can and save money by doing it myself, I brought them home. I spent a few hours this afternoon finishing up stripping the chain case and started in on the outside of the front fender. That's a chore because the paint is very resistant to my chemical stripper. Doing the inside will be a horror. I'd read here somewhere about an aircraft stripper that works better than the standard stuff that I'm using, so I'll do some searching later to find the brand name. If I can find the name, I'll look for it at the auto parts store tomorrow. I'm itching to get everything painted, but I'm still looking for a LH side cover, so the finish line is over the horizon 'till I find one.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Tue Apr 21, 2015 12:13 am

Seadog

Is it the later battery cover you are searching for? For the thicker battery? I'll see if I have anything. Heading to Atlanta next week so I could bring one over if I have anything suitable.

G

Seadog · Post by **Seadog** » Tue Apr 21, 2015 3:29 am

G-Man wrote:Seadog

Is it the later battery cover you are searching for? For the thicker battery? I'll see if I have anything. Heading to Atlanta next week so I could bring one over if I have anything suitable.

G

Thanks, G. That's very kind, but unfortunately I believe it's the thinner, older style battery tray. It's less than 2.5 deep.