1961 CB72 Project

[LOUD MOUSE]

I had a Stadium Super Lite (Mickey Thompson) which I had the frame and all suspension powder coated Royal Blue.
Being a competition car we hit each other often.
Chips and bent parts were common especially the steering arms and trailing arms.
Chips were easy with a spurt of Royal Blue rattle can. (You couldn't tell)
Anything requiring heat to fix received the same paint and you couldn't tell.
The area you need to fix isn't visible when all the parts are there so no one but you WILL EVER KNOW. ........................lm

Hi G Man
I am following this thread with keen interest. Like sixties cycle I've got a few pressed cranks that I would like to work on. A couple years ago I had a CA95 that had loud rod bearings. I had to resort to buying a CB92 crankshaft and having it shipped from the UK, which was CB92 expensive.
I haven't repaired my center stand mounting holes yet. I am just a little queasy about putting that much heat to my new powder coat. I am trying to decide between bombarding the area with cold air or applying some sort of heat sink.
Any Ideas?
Steve

[sixtiescycle]

Dick

You have nothing to lose. For the "270" you may have to look at what spacing you can get from the cam splines then set the crank phase based on that. Also the crank centre has 74 'pseudo' splines so getting it to work nicely at odd angles may need some good tooling.

Feel free to ask questions. I am not the expert but I have learned some of the issues from folks with more experience than me.....

G

G,

Yes thought about how the cam splines would be the set point. The XS cranks are splined and think they work out to 277 (?). Those also require quite a bit of work with the cam. These can be reindexed with a spline removed then of course there's the point cam.......................
Someday.....................................!

[G-Man]

Dick

A journey of 1000 miles begins with just one step.....

There are 12 splines on the cam (including the missing one) and you would need to set the cam halves at 45 degrees.

The Dream is set at 180 degs (6 splines) and the CL and CB are at 90 degs (3 or 9 )

You would only have the choice of 1 spline - 30 degrees or two splines - 60 degrees

The nearest you could get are therefore 60 (300) degrees OR
120 (240) degrees

Either could be fun.......

G

Dick

You have nothing to lose. For the "270" you may have to look at what spacing you can get from the cam splines then set the crank phase based on that. Also the crank centre has 74 'pseudo' splines so getting it to work nicely at odd angles may need some good tooling.

Feel free to ask questions. I am not the expert but I have learned some of the issues from folks with more experience than me.....

G

G,

Yes thought about how the cam splines would be the set point. The XS cranks are splined and think they work out to 277 (?). Those also require quite a bit of work with the cam. These can be reindexed with a spline removed then of course there's the point cam.......................
Someday.....................................!

[sixtiescycle]

Dick

A journey of 1000 miles begins with just one step.....

There are 12 splines on the cam (including the missing one) and you would need to set the cam halves at 45 degrees.

The Dream is set at 180 degs (6 splines) and the CL and CB are at 90 degs (3 or 9 )

You would only have the choice of 1 spline - 30 degrees or two splines - 60 degrees

The nearest you could get are therefore 60 (300) degrees OR
120 (240) degrees

Either could be fun.......

G

You did my work for me! was hoping it might be a tab bit closer but like you say either could be fun.

[G-Man]

I rather like the sound of a 240 engine.

Also I always fancied the idea of building a 3-cylinder engine and the cam splines are ideally set up for that....

G

Dick

A journey of 1000 miles begins with just one step.....

There are 12 splines on the cam (including the missing one) and you would need to set the cam halves at 45 degrees.

The Dream is set at 180 degs (6 splines) and the CL and CB are at 90 degs (3 or 9 )

You would only have the choice of 1 spline - 30 degrees or two splines - 60 degrees

The nearest you could get are therefore 60 (300) degrees OR
120 (240) degrees

Either could be fun.......

G

You did my work for me! was hoping it might be a tab bit closer but like you say either could be fun.

[G-Man]

Popped this rear brake cable in the ultrasonic cleaner while eI got on with some other chores.

It looks pretty good but I have to take the modified front fitting off and replace it with th ecorerct item. I'm going to have a go at re-plating the end ferrules in situ. It will need some nice fresh rubber boots and I may have to pinch those off other cables.

I think it should look really nice after a bit of TLC.



G

[G-Man]

Just had some time this afternoon to get my crank trued up. There was no time to make a set of Vee-blocks up so I dropped the crank into the crankcase and used that as my truing fixture.



The drive side shaft trued up very nicely and I managed to get it to 0.01mm or just under ½ a thou.



The alternator side was more troublesome and I could only get it to around 2 thou. The wheel was spot on on the pin (measured + / - 90 degrees to the pin) but I had a high spot at 180 degrees to the crank pin which I couldn't remove. I checked the 'swash' of the wheel but that wasn't a problem.

I'll take another look when I get back.

G