cam chain tensioners

Farm Shop · Post by **Farm Shop** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 9:58 am

Tim Allman wrote:I probably wasn't as clear as I could have been. Sorry.

I have the early style tensioner assembly with a badly worn wheel from my bike and a NOS new style assembly. I have noticed the offset you mention and realised that removing the new arm, spreading it and attaching it to the old aluminum part would lead to a wheel which wasn't centred on the chain. It would also misalign the rivet holes.

However, the wheels appear to be identical and I would like to take the one off the new tensioner (easy with a bench grinder) and install it in the old arm. I see that the rivet that attaches the wheel on both styles (and the primary chain tensioner too) is hollow and has and opening and scoop on one side to catch oil for lubrication. My question really has to do with replacing this rivet. Is it something one can buy perhaps or is it purpose made by Honda?

It has occurred to me as well that the rivets at the other end of the arms (the fixed end) are more conventional and are probably more easily dealt with. It seems to me that I might be able to remove the arms then narrow the arm mount on the old tensioner by grinding so that the new arm fits. I would of course make sure that the wheel is properly aligned.

I would be happy to have any feedback on this.

Tim, I have successfully swapped just the wheels before. If you have a good donor carefully grind the crimp off of the pin that holds the wheel.

The pin should then tap out pretty easily. Clean up and lube the needle bearing in the wheel you want to use. Make sure that when you re install the wheel that the oil passage in the bushing and the pin line up!!! And that the scallop of the pin is facing upward.

Then put just the tiniest spot of weld where the crimps used to be to hold the pin to the arm. I have picture of one I've done if you would like them.

Hope this helps. FS.

Tim Allman · Post by **Tim Allman** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 11:26 am

Farm Shop wrote: Tim, I have successfully swapped just the wheels before. If you have a good donor carefully grind the crimp off of the pin that holds the wheel.

The pin should then tap out pretty easily. Clean up and lube the needle bearing in the wheel you want to use. Make sure that when you re install the wheel that the oil passage in the bushing and the pin line up!!! And that the scallop of the pin is facing upward.

Then put just the tiniest spot of weld where the crimps used to be to hold the pin to the arm. I have picture of one I've done if you would like them.

Hope this helps. FS.

Thanks. This is good information to have.

However, I decided to keep the late style tensioner assembly whole and install a Capellini replacement sprocket. This keeps a NOS replacement in circulation and makes a more permanent fix for my engine.

Tim

Farm Shop · Post by **Farm Shop** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 9:45 pm

Glad to hear you found a solutuon Tim! I've seen the kits on ebay and thought that it would be a mighty slick way to go!

I'm just too darn cheap haha.

Anyone here got any miles on a cappellini setup?

R100 · Post by **R100** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:12 pm

LOUD MOUSE wrote:The photos show 2 issues of tensioner.
One (left) is the first issue with the set bolt on the left side. (first issue) But has the third issue spring and tensioner bar.
Right came along at engine number 105099. (issue 3)
You can see the set nut is on the right side and angled down a bit.
There is a third issue (issue 2) with the set bolt on the right and used the large aluminum mount.]

This is my tensioner that I wish to replace. Am I correct in thinking this is "issue 2", set bolt on the right (not angled), large mount?

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:29 pm

R100 wrote: This is my tensioner that I wish to replace. Am I correct in thinking this is "issue 2", set bolt on the right (not angled), large mount?

Yes.

HT

R100 · Post by **R100** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:35 pm

Thanks HT.
The gasket from my gasket kit fit it correctly.
I am wondering how to determine which version the various sellers on E-Bay are offering. The pictures usually are not definitive, and I doubt they are all that knowledgeable on the differences among the three versions.

R100 · Post by **R100** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 8:19 am

Can an "issue 3" tensioner (set nut on the right side and angled down a bit) be used to replace an "issue 2" (wide mounting plate), or are the mounting surface and bolt pattern too different?