I put the new cam chain in last night, it fits very snug and I like it. Using the process of attaching it to the old chain and pulling the long chain all the way through worked like a charm.
While I have the engine out of the bike I'm thinking of checking my transmission issues, Ed.
Could the timing chain being loose have ANYTHING to do with the hard shifting?
Top end noise.
You can get to the trans without removing the top end just remove the bottom case after you remove the entire clutch and drive chain and stater.
The chain does all it's work with the crank and cams which cause that part of the engine to run. The other area of the engine is clutch, gears, chains, and cables. Hard shifting will be somewhere with this area of the engine. Hard to shift can be caused by many parts. Groove warn in Kick Starter Shaft. Warn Shift Fork Ends. (never seen a bent one with all the many engines I opened) Warn Shift Drum Slot which will wear out the Shift Roller which can cause the gears to wear/round the Gear Dogs and wear the Shift Fork Ends. (round the flat area of the matching gears) Clutch adjustment not releasing the plates enough and allowing them to Drag/Put Pressure on the Trans Input Shaft causing pressure on the gears and they can't move position easily. Setting the proper release of the clutch is simple but at times folks are confused as to how to set it. Here's a try. Loosen the set nuts on each end of the cable. Turn the threaded adjusters In as far as they will go. Loosen the bolt at the adjuster and turn the adjuster Right/Left a couple of times then turn Right to stop then Left 1/8" and Tighten the bolt. Check Lever slack and adjust to 3/8" open when pressure is felt from the cable. Adjust Cable Adjusters as needed then tighten the Set Nuts. It is possible to have the Clutch Adjuster turned to far Right and applying push/pressure on the Release Rod which will cause the Clutch to Slip and also it can be adjusted to far Left and won't Push the Rod enough to get full release of the plates. CLEAR AS MUD! Did someone say MUD?. ............lm
I did talk to Ed and he said my shift drum might be worn out. I have a very rudimentary understanding of transmissions, I've only ever rebuilt BMW gearboxes. My clutch is currently about 1/4" of free play, seems tight (in a good way). I adjusted the screw in the cover all the way to the left, then all the way to the right as per Ed's suggestion. I can see that my cable end is being pulled up slightly with tension, not hanging down on the spindle. I'm going to open the clutch side cover tonight and probably post up a few pictures for help. I've read a few threads on the site about people with the same issue that I have, "not shifting out of first, can't find second gear, etc".
Separating crank cases.Thanks to Ed for the help yesterday, he'll have to hear from me again soon once I get this old guy open, haha.
I can't get the bottom of my crankcase off. It's really strange. It's cracked and separated (by the two nuts/wood block/hammer method), I took off those two nuts and every bolt/nut is off the bottom. I can pull the crank case up about 1/2" on every side, but then it feels like it "hits" something metal that stops it. It seems to get stuck around the magnetic rotor. I can only get that corner section up about 1/2" but the rest of the case is free and can move up even off of the guide pins, but that pesky corner just won't let go. I've tried wedging wood pieces around each section to "evenly" pull off the bottom but it still won't go past a certain point in that corner. Any suggestions on how to separate these headaches metal pieces?
I'll take a peek in there. If one was rusted to hell, any suggestions on how to remove or break it loose? Heat probably?
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