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Want pristine CL77 (I know -- who doesn't!)

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WilliamRich
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Location: San Diego, CA

Post by WilliamRich » Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:20 am

What great news about the availability of CL77 parts -- Thank you, G-Man.

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:55 am

William

Here are some links.....

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cl77-scrambl ... del_q=cl77

http://www.ohiocycle.com/catalog2.html

http://www.davidsilverspares.com/CL77-S ... AMERICAN)/

http://www.classichondarestoration.com/ ... cat_5.html

The CL77 shares a lot of engine parts with the CB77 and CA77 (less so) so it is possible to broaden the search for parts if you need to. Of course eBay is the main source for big lumps if you need them.

Enjoy the bike and the ride! :-)

G
Last edited by G-Man on Wed Feb 04, 2015 3:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F

WilliamRich
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Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2015 9:26 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Post by WilliamRich » Wed Feb 04, 2015 3:09 am

Thank G-Man. I will put those links away for safe keeping.

Now it's time for that Snuff-or-Not order ...

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jleewebb
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Location: travis county, tx

more links

Post by jleewebb » Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:33 am

'62 CB77. "It's a rider."

WilliamRich
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Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2015 9:26 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Post by WilliamRich » Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:36 am

To Snuff-or-Not ...

I suspect the baffles are safe and effective given their popularity and the seeming due diligence of the great Allan N. Lader. However, when the baffles are open, you appear to be running essentially straight pipes with all the possible negative consequences. The CRB 150-dollar price is baffling. You do appear to get the actual sixties product, including packaging, or at least a good knock off. One is tempted to head to the garage and start welding and maybe even knock out a functional equivalent on a dime. However, it seems likely that more than 150-smackers of time, materials, and sweat would be needed to achieve even the appearance of authenticity.

Once again, pulling out Mr. Visa with Fear and Loathing appears to be the only way out.

(Emailing CRB about working their Chrome Exhaust Tips into the mix and about snuffer availability.)
Last edited by WilliamRich on Fri Feb 06, 2015 1:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

WilliamRich
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Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2015 9:26 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Post by WilliamRich » Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:27 am

Hmm ... maybe there are simpler ways to provide variable baffling ...

1. Maybe a simple end cap with the appropriate hole size could be slipped on and off the pipe end with a simple spring-steel detent for locking. Would require drilling one hole. We could provide a variety of different hole size 'washer' inserts to enable the user to initially configure the end cap for use. We could slip the cap inside the exhaust pipe for aesthetics and to avoid scratching the pipe outer surface. The cap would be an improvement over a Snuf in that it would be invisible except for the carefully placed detent button. Might be hot to handle at times when removing, and does require stowing, but it would be small and easily stowed in the tool kit tube or even in a pouch under the lip of the seat. On the plus side, because it is housed internally, it does not require a chrome finish and therefore could be constructed quickly for pennies.

2. Maybe a mechanism similar to riflescope eyepiece cover. It could either flip parallel to the pipe, or simply rotate out of the way. Would be invisible when flipped behind the pipe and easily operated. The engaged modality would feature a simple bent tab detent protrusion from the baffle that engages a hole from inside the pipe. Would require a hole for the detent and a hole to secure the hinge strap. The detent could engage a hole for the stowed modality too. Just sheet metal.

Perhaps a strong cam hinge could eliminate the need for the detent mechanism. Imagine a Magpul MBUS front sight mounted inside the pipe that closes inward so exhaust pressures would not close it when open. A slimmer mechanism could control a baffle plate. Flipping it up and down without getting burnt or dirty requires thought. Maybe a cable with a grasp loop, or a baffle attached push-pull rod, or a little hook tool for pulling the baffle up and pushing it down (could fit on your key ring), or just stick your finger in the there to flip the baffle up or down. The baffle and hinge are all simple sheet metal.

FLIP-ON-OR-FLIP-OFF

I suspect that such configurations are old news, but Shark Tank teaches us that such assumptions are sometime not true.

The Snuff-or-Not product does LOOK cool and is extremely simple to use. I will ponder a design that looks similarly cool and easy to operate but even simpler to implement.
Last edited by WilliamRich on Fri Feb 06, 2015 1:19 am, edited 3 times in total.

zeerx
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Location: Haverhill, MA

Post by zeerx » Thu Feb 05, 2015 2:01 pm

Or you could make your own for about 6 bucks. The pipes are on a shelf and turned a bit but you get the idea.

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'99 ZRX1100
'05 DRZ400S
'66 CL77
'78 KZ1000LTD
'12 F-150 (Ford)

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