CA77 Wiring Diagram with and without winkers

[rrietman]

D; make sure you study and understand all the functions of the oem switch. when it is in a position to run the headlite, it connects extra stator coils into the charge system for the lighting load. a three position switch cannot do this. there is a way to bypass this function at the risk of constant overcharging. maybe that's what you have.
Randy

[rrietman]

D; make sure you study and understand all the functions of the oem switch. when it is in a position to run the headlite, it connects extra stator coils into the charge system for the lighting load. a three position switch cannot do this. there is a way to bypass this function at the risk of constant overcharging. maybe that's what you have.
Randy

[deafanddiabetic]

D; make sure you study and understand all the functions of the oem switch. when it is in a position to run the headlite, it connects extra stator coils into the charge system for the lighting load. a three position switch cannot do this. there is a way to bypass this function at the risk of constant overcharging. maybe that's what you have.
Randy

Now that you mention that, initially before I took it all apart I was having flickering tail light and head light, but I attributed it to a bad ground or a wire touching somewhere since there were a lot of chewed open rubber spots along basically every wire. Maybe with that 3 way switch in there caused it, then?

[deafanddiabetic]

D; make sure you study and understand all the functions of the oem switch. when it is in a position to run the headlite, it connects extra stator coils into the charge system for the lighting load. a three position switch cannot do this. there is a way to bypass this function at the risk of constant overcharging. maybe that's what you have.
Randy

What would you suggest as a bypass? Thanks!

[deafanddiabetic]

Just got done getting the wiring harness together again after a full rebuild, and the tail light/head light still flickers.

I patched or replaced all wires that had exposed copper, so nothing SHOULD be grounding wrong. Spark works (YES!), horn, presumably the rest of it is in okay shape, the starter functions, but according to the last poster I might not have enough power to make both lights work. There is an aftermarket 3 position switch installed on the bike. I do have the original ignition switch but the wiring was hacked to hell and there's no key to it.

Bumping for a possible solution?

[Eljeef]

If you post the number that is on the original ignition someone may have a key.

[deafanddiabetic]

FYI, for anyone with the exact same wiring as my 1965 CA78, the answers to my questions above are as follows:

The white wire off my ignition switch replaces the black with yellow in the diagram and feeds the tail light. The black with red does not run through the ignition switch 6 wire connector as depicted in the diagram but instead runs directly to the starter solenoid as its hot.

The stop lamp receives its power from one of the two black leads that come off the ignition switch.

Hope this helps someone whose wiring is not exactly as shown in any of the C77 diagrams most of us seem to be using.

I also have no brown wire and no black/yellow wire. Currently, the white wire goes into the coupler and I have my tail light connected to it (and the stop switch). My tail light stays on even when the key is out.

You say in your post that one of the black IG wires AND the white wire both feed the tail light. Can you clarify this?