Stainless bolt kits

[ggray]

Thanks for the replies guys and the link to Burk's Motorsports.

Gary

[Dogsbd]

This company lists JIS machine screws:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

I've not bought any so I can't vouch for them.

[Hahnda]

Wow they do. I checked with Fastenal, a hardware only company, and they didn't have them. Searched JIS on the web and came up empty. Wouldn't you know it Mcmaster does have them.

[Dogsbd]

Order JIS screws from McMaster.

NOT "old" JIS, but a modern "Japanese Industrial Standard" that dimensionally is the same as any other ISO metric screw.

Cost me $17 for ten screws to find this out, so beware!

[e3steve]

Guys, this is very basic, but if you're using stainless bolts on engine casings there is a dissimilar-metals issue here. You MUST separate the alloy/stainless mix by using a good protecting agent; best is TefGel, which is quite expensive but easily obtained in any good chandlery or on the 'Net. Duralac (a type of paint in a tube/pot), copper grease, silicon grease or just straight petroleum jelly from any pharmacy is better than nothing.

Even if your casings' threads are stainless Heli-coiled, there is still a risk of seizure where the bolts pass thru the outer casings' drillings; and when stainless seizes in alloy, it's there for life (if you're unlucky), as the surface area of the two items is so vast that the head will shear off before it turns! - particularly with anything smaller than M10 (believe it or not). The same is true of some types of plated bolts, and, in particular, the C(x)72/77 top engine bolt thru the head casting.

And if you find yourself in the unlucky situation of drilling out a stainless bolt, centre-pop and start drilling with the smallest drill that you safely can (i.e.: that you won't break, because that IS goodnight Vienna!) to lessen the risk of the bit wandering off-centre and into the casing (same applies).

To finalise: 1. applying gentle heat to the outside of the affected casing's drilling with a gas blowtorch (NOT oxy-acetylene) or a powerful electric heat-gun can sometimes assist the (larger) seized bolts to shift; 2. with longer fastenings, always use bolts (partially-threaded but more expensive) and not machine screws (fully threaded) - bolts are torsionally-stronger and have less surface area along their length for any electrolytic corrosion to form, thus reducing possible problems.

Anyways, if you're a true 305 aficionado, the corrosion won't have time to form, as you'll no doubt be taking it apart at least once a month just for the crack!!

Regards to all fellow saddos (sad b@st@rds) like me.......