Handful of questions, 72 differences, +a chrome quote

mips · Post by **mips** » Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:26 pm

I think I may have found the problem. Hoping its my ignorance (this is my first multi cylinder bike to work on). I read the instructions for timing as turn stator plate (says crank) 180 degrees to set left points. I pulled off tapper covers to make sure I was on TDC and reset it. Going to finish going thru it when it isn't threatening to snow . Thanks

mips · Post by **mips** » Fri Feb 15, 2013 5:37 pm

Redid the points/timing again. Started, higher RPMS seem correct. idle is not good and still needs screws screws pushed nearly all the way in. Didn't do well under load today though.
Static timing done, but when I used my timing gun (which died today), it was too far advanced. When I retarded it to try to match the F mark ... the bike really sputtered out. If I advanced it more, then the idle speed went up a lot higher.

I've included a video. Heck .. maybe I'm doing it wrong. I hope so, because that will be an easy fix. In the video, I show exactly how I "test" my static timing that was just adjusted. You can see the test light. sorry the movement wasn't so smooth, but you should be able to see that the light goes on when it hits F and when it hits LF.
http://youtu.be/Tj5PRwz6AH0

Hope I can get some help! Getting pretty frustrated with this bike.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri Feb 15, 2013 5:44 pm

At the start you have a wire in the way.
Also if you use vise grip pliers on the bolt you can/will be able to get Dead On. ......lm

mips wrote:Redid the points/timing again. Started, higher RPMS seem correct. idle is not good and still needs screws screws pushed nearly all the way in. Didn't do well under load today though.
Static timing done, but when I used my timing gun (which died today), it was too far advanced. When I retarded it to try to match the F mark ... the bike really sputtered out. If I advanced it more, then the idle speed went up a lot higher.

I've included a video. Heck .. maybe I'm doing it wrong. I hope so, because that will be an easy fix. In the video, I show exactly how I "test" my static timing that was just adjusted. You can see the test light. sorry the movement wasn't so smooth, but you should be able to see that the light goes on when it hits F and when it hits LF.
http://youtu.be/Tj5PRwz6AH0

Hope I can get some help! Getting pretty frustrated with this bike.

mips · Post by **mips** » Fri Feb 15, 2013 7:47 pm

Shoot. I uploaded a lower-fi version and you can see it light up at the right point on the higher quality. I did use vice grips as you suggested. I only used the ratchet in the video so I wouldn't take so long to demonstrate. If you have any doubts about the right side timing, I can upload the hi-fi version. If not -- do you have any suggestions/ideas?

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri Feb 15, 2013 11:12 pm

NO!. ..lm

mips wrote:Shoot. I uploaded a lower-fi version and you can see it light up at the right point on the higher quality. I did use vice grips as you suggested. I only used the ratchet in the video so I wouldn't take so long to demonstrate. If you have any doubts about the right side timing, I can upload the hi-fi version. If not -- do you have any suggestions/ideas?

mips · Post by **mips** » Sat Feb 16, 2013 12:51 am

No you don't know, or no you don't want a video ? I've read hundreds of posts here and understand you are particular about people following your advice. Trying to follow any advice to a T

Tim Miller · Post by **Tim Miller** » Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:48 am

This is why you should always use a timing light. Your advancer is shot.

Tim