Electronic Fuel Injected CB77

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 1:12 am

The sensors and electronics may require a better regulated supply than the normal Superhawk charging system can provide.

Charlie's Place sells a combined regulator / rectifier which might help. If it is just EM interference then you are on the right lines with muMetal.

Good project!

G

MBellRacing · Post by **MBellRacing** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 1:21 am

G-Man wrote:The sensors and electronics may require a better regulated supply than the normal Superhawk charging system can provide.

Charlie's Place sells a combined regulator / rectifier which might help. If it is just EM interference then you are on the right lines with muMetal.

Good project!

G

I did, actually. Charley is a rockstar. He sold me (for a great price) a NOS CB93 stator (more turns) and a 14V regulator/rectifier. It charges VERY well. I knew I'd need some help keeping the ECU going (requires 10V minimum and 2 amp, I believe) plus the simple injectors and fuel pump. If you look back through, I also made an LED headlight that saves a massive amount of wattage and fitted the bike with an LED taillight. Overall, I assume I'm breaking about even with all the lights on and the EFI running. The worst thing for this little battery is the priming of the fuel pump. It really drags the voltage down before the engine is running.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 6:44 am

Sounds like you're on top of everything!
I was thinking about not so much the voltage but the 'ripple' caused by the imperfect creation of DC from AC with the standard setup. With a modern reg you should do fine.

Thanks for sharing this. Fascinating....

G

MBellRacing · Post by **MBellRacing** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:29 pm

Got another little improvement to the Hawk while I slowly get back into the project. I got a Ballistic lithium battery and charger. It is VERY light, and very small, all with all the cranking power (more, if you ask me) that the old AGM had. It is so small, it allows me to be a bit easier on cable routing with some room under the seat.

I cranked the bike over for well over 30 seconds total today, and the battery only lost about 1V. That is a huge increase over the original lead batteries. The charger also allows me to balance all the cells out to help it last longer as a whole and always have maximum performance. It also has the ability to diagnose any issues with the battery itself, which, if nothing else, is peace of mind!

I highly recommend this kit for any old Honda owner!

freedomgli · Post by **freedomgli** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 2:34 pm

MBellRacing wrote:I briefly spoke to my neighbor Bob Guynes. He's something of a classic Honda guru. He's built a number of race bikes from the 60s and 70s as well as broken many Bonneville records. He is now making some replica race parts for the Superhawk (and other Hondas using the same parts) built from original castings. He said he'll trade me a set of ducted brake backing plates for the price of my old carbs that he's planning on using on some wild project... Not a bad deal! To anybody else that uses the CB77-style brake hubs, these plates are amazing. They're drilled using a jig that is dead on and really adds some functional flare that you rarely see on drum brake bikes. Here's Bob in the 70's with some S90 and Superhawk race bikes. You can see the sort of brake ducting I'm talking about:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Rl4IybrZWF0/T ... img002.jpg

If you can get them from Bob or put me in touch with him that would be awesome. I'd love to acquire some replica CR77 brake plates but it appears they're no longer available from a source I found in the UK. (Apparently, Tony Milk originally cast them and then Stuart Branch of CHR continued making them for some time, but there have been complaints about recent quality, and now it appears CHR are no longer trading).

If you can't get them, my next option is to rotate the backing plate forward and weld in a new brake stay lug just aft of the short arm spline per Jim Wulzen's recommendation. This frees up enough room along the leading edge of the backing plate for a decent size brake scoop that I'd have to fabricate from scratch.

jerry · Post by **jerry** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:18 pm

Please contact Airmun who is registered on this Forum. He can do Replica brake castings. They are rough as were Tony Milk castings. The castings are a big task to finish to a professional standard but well worth the final result. All the best jerry