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The Superhawk from hell...

Want to keep a Restoration Log? Post it here! You can include photos. Suggested format: One Restoration per Thread; then keep adding your updates to the same thread...
LOUD MOUSE
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Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:43 am

Steering head bearing?. .......lm
Jlovvorn wrote:I think I can see that bearing in the hole, and it's much bigger. This is the size of a BB.

Jlovvorn
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:10 am
Location: Washington DC

Post by Jlovvorn » Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:48 am

Scary thought! I have not been in the front end.

rrietman
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Location: bellingham wa.

Post by rrietman » Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:53 pm

have you had the handlebar switches apart? bb size balls in there.
Randy

Jlovvorn
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Location: Washington DC

Post by Jlovvorn » Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:57 am

Yes, I have. Thanks for the lead.

rzgkane
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:12 pm
Location: Huntington Beach, CA

Post by rzgkane » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:23 am

You will never be able to get that bb back in a dimmer switch with the switch still mounted on the bike. Trust me.

In fact, even with the switch off the bike you will wonder many times aloud how in the hell it was put together in the first place. Good luck.
Jlovvorn wrote:Yes, I have. Thanks for the lead.

Jlovvorn
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:10 am
Location: Washington DC

Post by Jlovvorn » Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:03 pm

Ok, I am done for the weekend and appear to have had success.

I think 21mm is just about the magic number for the springs, or any similar length that makes them not rattle loose, but not pressure the weights when at rest either. Tight enough to remove play from the cam, but no tighter.

The bike advances normally now, smoothly, and without hesitation. It's advancing to 5 degrees past the two marks, but I am not thinking that is enough to worry about.

So, the tally for this weekend is pulling engine, change advance springs, replace three oil seals right side, change starter, switch, and solenoid, paint and install right and left covers (replaced the right one that was cracking), reinstall engine, and then one more thing I am afraid to even mention.

Just for fun, I installed the Amal 626 carbs I bought a while back - when I thought my carbs were toast.

Followed the instructions on the forum, bolted right on, and shaved down 14mm of each cable housing at the splitter. Removed the choke circult and capped the 2nd hole on top of each carb.

Hit the primers twice, one kick and WHAM it took off running like crazy.

Tuned the idle screws down and got a smooth, stable idle at 1200.

Jumped on and took off, and I mean took off.

Like a totally different bike.

I know its completely heretical, and I will be shunned, but these carbs are the shit.

I am never going back.

No lag or spitting off the line - just power and lots of it.

No adjustments made, and the plugs are deep brown and happy.

And they are just enough smaller than stock that you can fit pods on if you wiggle it around the petcock.

Image
Picture 007 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr

Image
Picture 005 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr

Image
Picture 009 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr

Jlovvorn
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:10 am
Location: Washington DC

Post by Jlovvorn » Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:08 pm

Disregard all data on springs.

It is back to the erratic idle and refusing to come down from advance, as clearly the springs are now too loose.

I think its time to thrown in the towl.

I am not pulling this engine a third time, and even if I did, I have no idea what I would try, except maybe welding the advance.

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