Making cables is pretty simple. Venhill makes cable kits that include the housing, end ferrules and various types of ends for the cables. I've made my own by cutting stock cables and shortening them. They need to be very clean or the solder will not wet the steel. You can also machine your own customer cable ends and ferrules on a lathe if you have access to one. I made my own ferrules because the stock ones were pitiful.
I would just use the stock cable splitter. I assume the CB has the same splitter that is used on the CL bikes. They use splitters on vintage Brit bikes too, so easy to find.
You could mount the pump in grommets. Machine sleeves that fit inside the grommets and that way the pump will float on the rubber. You could remount the toolbox the same way to double isolate it.
You could also open up the holes in the tool box and fit grommets to them and run the lines thru the grommets. Will seal better for rain and also prevent any chafing or paint wear at the edge.
regards,
Rob
Electronic Fuel Injected CB77
Thanks for the heads up on the cables. It looks like I just need the two short cables after the splitter changed. They need to be maybe an inch longer each and have the barrel-type fittings installed. Not too bad, I guess.
Didn't get too much done today. This holiday season is killing me!!! I did, however, get time to cut down my replacement headlight ears to the right size and test fit my clip-on mounts I had machined. I have lost my set screws and will need to try and find some new ones. I also need to get a 1.75" hole saw suitable for cutting chrome-plated steel to cut the bar stock. I then need to make a simple wood jig to make sure both bars are cut and welded at the right angle.     The final question is: should I powder coat them the same finish as the frame or should I chrome plate them like the original bars and the lower trim rings on the headlight ears? Anyway, this is where I leave things for the night, and likely the weekend. Maybe more after the holiday.  Mike,
really nice work! I'm looking forward to seeing more progress. I think you should go blaxck on the headlight ears, make for a nice contrast with the chrome. I have the cables you need with the barrel ends. If this looks like it will work PM me your adress, and I'll drop them in the mail. Davo
Thanks for the help, Davo! I don't really know how long I need the cables until I get the bars on. I'll keep you posted. Just a heads up, it may quite a while. I'll be on vacation, then testing at Daytona, then home for a couple weeks before the 24H. This is a busy time of year!
Anyway, today was productive, but not really tangibly so. I fixed the headlight to see how it works with the new ears (one was a bit bend and I had to mend it). It looks awesome. I can't wait to get the ears painted and the bars attached and plated. Modestly, I think it'll look pretty badass and something seldom seen. The big work though, was the wiring. I decided to take off all the electrical tape insulation that Ecotrons applies so I could see the color of it's guts. It's not too bad once you reach in and chase some wires, but it will take careful work to make sure I don't mix the wrong white wire and make sure the multiple blues wind up at their proper destinations. I'll be shortening most of the wires to just a couple inches seeing as everything but the battery and the fuel pump are within a foot of the ECU. I decided to get my hands really dirty and knock off that right side engine cover to install the new CYB93 stator. It actually went much easier than I had thought. The three wire loom from the assembly comes out about 90 degrees differently than the CB77 part, so some rerouting was neccessary, but overall, seamless operation. Once that was done I installed and wired in the new rectifier/regulator from Charley's Place and the charging system is complete! Finally, I placed the ugly little intake air temperature sensor in the back of one of the air filters. I hate it, but I couldn't think of a better place without disturbing any airflow. Hopefully it won't be as noticeable once the tank and covers are on!       I see what you mean about the inlet air temp sensor. Why not mount it to a piece of aluminum and put it between the filters, where you cannot see it. I'm doubtful that you will hinder any airflow outside the filters to the point that you will affect performance. You could even mount it just under that wishbone area at the top of the frame. Put a small piece of aluminum angle or similar and mount it there. Maybe a glob of silicone or 3M 5200 to hold the bracket to the frame. Then run the wires up high, out of sight. That should keep it out of the air flow to the filters and still in the ambient air stream.
regards, Rob
I was told it needs to be on the engine side of the filter. My problem is that there's no room left in the throttle itself to mount the sensor and the whole side of the filter is (obviously) paper element that I don't want to puncture. I'm sure it will work out fine where it is, I just don't like how it looks.
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
