30W Non-detergent - Or is there something better?

jensen · Post by **jensen** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 3:39 pm

Hi,

No problem LM, but the question still stands. I would like to see data go with assumptions, just like you.

Jensen

terecha · Post by **terecha** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 12:24 pm

hi!
This is my first post here. I am from Poland, and I can't buy oil, which you have decribed. They are not available in shops, you have described only US oil brands.
Can you tell me what will be the best engine oil for my 305 Superhawk, which I could buy in Europe?
thank you!

48lesco · Post by **48lesco** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 1:45 pm

I have used the readily available straight 30W detergent oil in my CA77 and CB77 for thousands of miles now. Centrifugal filter seems to be working fine, and I change the oil at least every 1000 miles.

terecha · Post by **terecha** » Mon Oct 10, 2011 4:44 pm

I am looking for suitable oil, which I could buy in Europe. I always used MOTUL or VALVOLINE, which one will be the best for my superhawk (after full engine rebuild, no rust inside):

http://www.motul.fr/pl/en/products?f[range]=21

???

brewsky · Post by **brewsky** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:19 am

I would use the non-synthetic for break-in (first 500-1000 miles) such as this:

http://www.motul.fr/us/en-US/products?f ... cosity]=28

If you read this entire post, you will find several opinions on the best choice for permanent use...detergent, non-detergent, synthetic, non-synthetic, synthetic blends, straight weight, multi weight etc.

You will be safe using any oil rated JASO MA or MA2 (for wet clutch compatability reasons), and change often.

jensen · Post by **jensen** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 4:19 am

Hi,

After reading this whole thread, it should be obvious that there isn't a specific answer to your question.
Every single oil mentioned in this thread has it's pro's and con's. Trail and error is the best way to find out. I'm sure that several oils mentioned in this thread are available in Poland. Every other answer to this question will lead to endless discussions, and in the end, there will be no conclusion. Compare it with the euro crisis, no one will know up front what will work and what not,

Jensen

sotxbill · Post by **sotxbill** » Fri Jul 12, 2013 10:51 am

G-Man wrote:Jensen and Sotxbill

Great stuff. I am enjoying this discourse. When my CL77 and 72 get on the road next year I have a much better idea of how to preserve my investment.

One comment though. In the 'old days' many people opined that multigrade oils did not preserve their spec in motorcycle engines with roller bearings etc because of deterioration of that long chain molecule 'trickery'. Is their any sound opinion on the relative life of multigrade vs monograde oil? i.e their ability to stay within spec over time?

Not trying to spark off more doubt, just curious.

Regards

G

Actually no.. the new oils will do better as the molecues don't shear down like the non detergent heavy paraffin and wax chains do. The old oils start out a 30 w.. but then the lighter molecues shear out and then are vaporized out the breather. This leave behind the heaver molecules. So the oil thickens over time. And then the heavy wax starts to cling to the engine and form sludge. So the old 30wt non detergents get thicker and thicker and this is actuall measured in testing. Yes there is an api test for both shearing and vaporizing and viscosity change. Clinging to bearings is only important in dry starting as otherwise the oil is being pumped to all the bearings.. Yes that is another api measurement. Guess which oil passes and which oil fails...So on the bearings again, the newer oils excel.

Again, why would anyone run a 30wt non detergent oil unless you have babbet bearings.

In 1958, there were not many choices.. by 65 multi weights were just coming on line. Some had problems with foaming.. quess what.. that was another api test and was eventually conquered.. the 70s saw cams failing due to dry starting, so quess what? Another api test..

Hopefully your starting to see why the newer api oils do the job.