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Oil seepage at front of cylinder body and head

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arseatea
honda305.com Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:01 pm
Location: Hillsboro Ohio

Oil seepage at front of cylinder body and head

Post by arseatea » Wed Aug 17, 2011 10:56 am

1967 CB77, using Clymer Service and Repair handbook:

Finally got the engine back into the frame and it starts by kicking. But it runs rough. I think tweeking the carbs will smooth that out. But I have other issues that I need advice on first.

1. When the engine is running, the kick starter stays down. I can pick it back up, but it falls to the front again. Thought it might be the clutch needing adjusting, but that did not help. The book says that if you dis-engage the clutch with the hand lever, the kick-starter should not engage. But mine does. Something is amiss here.

2. I have oil seepage in front between the down-tubes right at the head gasket. I really think the head bolts should be torqued to more than 15ft/lbs, but that's according to the book. The book covers all twins from 250-305, and that torque might be for one of the other motors.

3. The starter solenoid does not make contact inside. I opened it to find that the paper insulation was damaged. I cut new insulation out of old paper gasket material. I can hear and feel it kicking in, but it still does not make contact. Not a real problem as I can get another used one for about $25, but I sure would like to get this original piece working right.

4. On a separate note, the left muffler had a split at the slip ring where the two pieces connect. I pre-fit it to make sure it was in the right position, then took it to a welder and he was able to braise it. then, after cleaning up the braise with a file and wire brush, I bought a rattle-can of high-gloss silver metallic paint at Dollar General just to cover the copper colored braised section and it looks almost undectable. Since there is considerable heat in this area, I don't know how long it will last. But it's worth a shot. Braising..$7, Paint $3, satisfaction..priceless. Just thought this might be interesting.

Any suggestions to the oil problem and kick starter problem appreciated..Sorry for the long post. Ron

mike horvath
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Posts: 209
Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 2:16 pm
Location: chino hills, ca.

oil seepage

Post by mike horvath » Tue Aug 23, 2011 11:29 pm

Ron,
Hey on your kick starter issue, sounds like you need to index or spin the thing around CW one turn to wind it up, then set it onto the kick shaft so it ends up pointing around 11 o'clock. I remember you position it onto the shaft around 12 or 1 o'clock, but it ends up around 11 ( NOTE: If it ends up at 12 or later...do it again till it ends up at 11 ). The head bolts usually need re-torque at least once (mine where twice) after a rebuild. I believe you should ride it enough to get it hot, then after it cools down, re-torque it. I would up the torque to about 19 or 20lbs. Torque them in the order prescribed and don't forget the two at the plugs. This may cure your weepage. Sounds like your onto the starter deal. It's nice when you can getter fixed by being innovative and yet not compromising the original design. Hope this helps.

Mike

arseatea
honda305.com Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:01 pm
Location: Hillsboro Ohio

Post by arseatea » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:47 am

Thanks Mike. I will try winding the kick starter cw in a few days. For the moment, I am on another project trying to get done before Labor Day.

Funny thing about the selonoid. Using a multimeter and jumper wires, I was not able to get any conductivity reading through the switch. Just like an open circuit. I could feel and hear it making contact, and I was purplexed. I must have taken it apart and re-checked 4-5 times. But finally in desperation, I just re-installed it and hooked up all the connections...and "voila"...it works like a charm. I still don't know why there was no contact reading on the mtm, but after rebuilding with what I had on hand, it feels good that it works.

My torque wrench is an old Craftsman beam type and is in in/lb. That should be from 228 in/lbs to 240 in/lbs. As I was tightening up initially, I was really concerned about stripping out one or more of the pins. Also, It appeared that the nuts were pushing back and loosening themselves as I released pressure on the wrench. Crazy, I know. I think I need to head to sears and get me a decent ft/lbs wrench as I really don't trust this wrench that I am using. I prefer the clicker type and as you can probably guess, I like craftsman tools.

Sure would like to read some of the experiences that others have had with this selonoid thing and torque wrench issues. Thanks again for the post..Ron

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