Well, I'am hot and heavy into the middle of my CA77 resto. I am ready to put the motor back together. Cleaned, new gaskets in hånd, ect. Ive searched the forums for for some good advice and there seems to be many ways out there to put these things back together. Seems like many people get these pesky oil leaks and have to do dig back in. Is there a sure fire way or a highly succesful way to do this without getting the leaks? Wondering what bond products work best. Also looks like many torque values go up. Open to any feedback Thanks
Jay
Best products and way to put a 305 back together?????Jay,
Sounds like you've done your research on this topic! You're going to need to go with what you think is best. I use hondabond 4 for the center cases, and no sealant on the gaskets. I torque the head bolts to 18 ft lbs, and retorque after 24hrs. Some go as high as 22 ft lbs. davo davomoto
64 CB77 63-7 CB77 Cafe' 67 CL77 64 CL72 66 CL77 big bore flat tracker Many others! I'm not sure there is a "right way" but I start with the raw casings and make sure all the threads are cleaned out, the holes are all lightly countersunk and the matching faces are flat and clean. I dress out minor dings with a fine file by draw filing. It removes the raise weal around a ding but leaves the low spots.
A pair of crankcase halves can take had a day or more to get completely clean with flat enough faces. Take that time to get them right. I usually use bearing blue on one surface of the crankcases and press them together by hand to check for an even blue lines on the other half. You could use a thin smear of say blue grease instead. When I know the cases are perfect, or as close as they are likely to get, carefully insert gear shafts crank etc. Then clean all the faces again with a clean rag and some acetone and apply a THIN smear of gasket goo to one side. Any of the 3 Bond products works, but I think they ceased making 1104 and it's been replaced. Bolt the crankcases together torquing them up a little at a time. If the cases are not going together, STOP. Don't wail on them with a BFH. Where there are dowel pins, I assemble the cases without gaskets and make sure that the faces sit down flat. Check with a thin feeler gauge if you can see light between two parts. If they don't fit together empty, there is no way they will go together full of oily parts. Take the time to check everything - twice. Head dowels can be a problem. There are a couple of different lengths in that size and if one is too long, the head will never sit down properly. Dry assemble the head over the barrels before you start without a head gasket to be sure that the head is not hanging on a dowel. Check the barrels onto the upper crankcase to see they sit down flat. Always use new O rings and oil seals and gaskets. No gasket sealer is necessary, but on a race motor I use Hylomar on the crankcases because it's easier to clean up, and on clutch cover gaskets I grease the outer surface to stop it from sticking on both sides. If I have to pull a cover to work on a clutch the gasket will be reusable and at the track that's essential. Heads I torque to no more than stock setting because that's all they need. On a well machined head (ie lots machined off) I have to check that the acorn nuts are not bottoming onto the studs. CB acorn nuts are deeper than most later replacements. And of course make sure that everything is clean. If in doubt, clean it again, and again. Parts must be spotless and so must the workspace. Vacuum it before you start, I use a clean sheet of cardboard or spread a newspaper (remember them) out on the bench to sop up drips and keep things clean. Have lots of clean shop rags available - old Tee shirts are a cheap source but wash them first..... Take your time to do it right. Rushing always takes more time in the long run.
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