Thanks so much Graham. You are a big help.
Glad I didn't decide to melt the "lead" out of the end of the con rod shaft. I think you are right on the money. DOH! I was reading the posts about putting a starter on a CL Crank and the discussion about the oil passages talked specifically about the possibility of drilling the center of the CL crank shaft to create an oil passage to lube the starter sprocket. Aluminum plug would be required. DOH! How did I miss that one...... Okay. No response required. Just realized how much I sound like Homer when I say DOH!
I have CL72 and CA77 shop manuals, but they only talk generally about the crank being a press fit. And don't describe disassembly at all.
As I said, big brother and I stopped applying pressure because it seemed to be taking quite a bit and we didn't want to break anything. Probably wouldn't hurt to give it all 12 tons just to see what happens before investing money in a bigger press or machine shop time. We thought about some kind of pin through the holes for realignment, but I think you could get it just as close with a scribed mark as you suggested or even laying it in the remaining piece of angle iron like a giant V-block. Dial guage and lead hammer should make the fine adjustments as you suggest.
Again, Graham, thanks so much for coaching me through this.
Crankshaft disassemblyRegarding dissassembly of Honda cranks just go and be adventurous. It WILL take a lot of pressure to dissassemble and I usually use a 4 to 5lb dolly to hit the horizontal plate that holds the crank or otherwise the press itself to jarr everything to initiate movement. When the crank first moves it can do so with a very LOUD bang and you can absolutely scare yourself. All is OK. Using logic just continue to pull crank apart. I usually have a friend hold the bottom of the crank with a cloth when it is nearly apart so that bits dont fly everywhere. I would have pulled apart and re assembled 70 or 80+ cranks over the years. Last crank only 2 weeks ago I can promise you that the 12t press is big enough. All the best Jerry
Jerry
Nice to hear the comforting voice of an experienced man.... I don't think that either I or Bill will exceed your total any time soon but I have some really nasty looking cranks that I'd just like to pull apart and play around with. G '60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F As Tezer said JIGS are required for re assembly of the cranks. The first one to index is the centre shaft to keep cam timing correct.(not applicable to me as I use adjustable cam sprockets in the cyl. heads) and the other jigs to set up the inner flywheels at either 180 or 360 degrees. Again with assembly I will use that same dolly to jarr the crank together to obtain correct side clearances for bearings and conrods. I personally always skim the flywheel outside diameters to the same dimension to help in the initial alignment during assembly. When the crank is assembled I then use another Jig and Dial Indicator and the press again to align the crank to within .001". This process can take anything from an hour to what ever it takes. Longest has been about 4 hours. (bad hair day maybe). In dissasembling cranks I have found maybe 30% of the parts re usable. Generally Moisture has gotten into the cranks. At the moment I have 5 cranks to be rebuilt fo the racers and if I get 2 good cranks I will be very happy. Hope all this helps. All the best Jerry
Crank assemblyThanks Jerry.
I am only going to take one end off of each crank, so timing shouldn't be upset nor should the 180/360 degree position. But, perhaps the reassembly will take a little more doing than I had hoped to get proper alignment. Your pointers will help, no doubt. ....And I love a good adventure..... Will advise how things turn out.
Breaker on the side, here:
Jerry, Graham, guys, can you give me/us some idea of how much con-rod play is acceptable at the big end bearings, please? I have two cranks, neither of which shows any perceptible slack at the inner mains, but the con-rods do. One (the crank from the motor that I've just pulled & stripped) is worse than the other, and the small ends clatter like a tin of nuts & bolts, so that one's being put to one side. With the spare crank the big ends can be 'felt' to move back & forth, but only just. I know I need to get a dial gauge measurement, but what's your experience & take on this? Is any just-perceptibly 'felt' big end bearing movement acceptable? Also, I have -305 (15.1mm) gudgeon pins and therefore need to ream the rods' small ends and the new pistons. Have you done this? And can it be carried out by hand (15.1 reamer, I guess?)? Sorry for the digression, guys, but it could be relevant to all of us; and my intention is not to have the crank stripped at this stage. Any experienced info would be gratefully received.
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
