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honda twin
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Location: slower Delaware

Not sure where to post....

Post by honda twin » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:13 am

Just bought a parts washer.....what works best to clean grease and grime ? Would need about 5-7 gallons to fill tank....denatured alcohol? Going to parts store today to see what they have.....
Is there anything to avoid? Need to clean up my clutch pack to inspect....Thanks Kev.

Goodysnap
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Post by Goodysnap » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:28 am

Plain ol mineral spirits works quite well. Low flash point. I like to use superfine scotch brite pads in the basin. Takes the grime off superfast and doesnt scratch parts. You can add a little ATF to the mixture it wont dry out your hands as bad.
64' CB77
65' CB160

honda twin
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Post by honda twin » Sun Apr 03, 2011 11:25 am

Thank you Goody...sounds like a plan.....I think I saw that at Lowe's ....I appreciate the help...That is what I meant I think , when I said alcohol......mid fifties dementia ...ha ha...

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Snakeoil
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Post by Snakeoil » Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:40 am

I have a big parts washer and I've yet to fill it up. I use a plastic dish washing basin. I use much less solvent, and I can put it back into jugs so it does not evaporate and fill the shop with fumes. It also allows me to clean the basin well and then use a different or new batch of solvent for things like carb cleaning.

Putting the solvent in jugs allows the crud to settle to the bottom so after a few days, when you pour it into the basin for the next cleaning assignment, if you pour carefully, all the crud stays in the bottom and your dirty solvent is now relatively clean... or clean-ish.

You would be surprised how long a gallon of mineral spirits will last this way.

I've never used the pump and nozzle to let things soak and clean. Part's cleaning is just a nasty part of playing with bikes. I suit up with an apron and gloves and just resign myself for a miserable few hours cleaning parts.

I store all my cleaning brushes and stuff in coffee cans in the parts washer. When I close the lid, it gives me another surface to put things on when working on a bike. Nice thing is if you spill solvent or splash, it says in the parts washer.

By the time the solvent is is too dirty to use anymore, you have a lot less than your original gallon. That means it's easier to dispose of. I'm not sure I'd want to deal with 5 gals of crummy solvent. That's why pro shops have a parts cleaning service provide the solvent and it's disposal.

And just for future reference, this should have been posted in Everything Else.


regards,
Rob

geosar
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Post by geosar » Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:23 am

Rob

Another gem. Thanks. I have a large tub in the way which will now become a part of the solution instead of an obstruction.


Off together my mineral spirits.

Keep the suggestions coming.

Thanks

George

jensen
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Post by jensen » Mon Apr 04, 2011 12:18 pm

Hi,

Most fluids are very aggressive to your skin, use gloves instead.
Let time do the work, so soaking for a long time (more then 24 hours) saves you time.

I use a stainless steel basin (old electrical cabinet), and pump out the fluid after I'm done.
While pumping it into a jug I filter with an old stainless steel dish washing machine filter, so you are able to find those small parts again !

The very fine crud settles down as mentioned, and after a few weeks the fluid is almost clear again.

Before flushing in solvent, clean the greasy parts with a small piece of wood and a cloth, this way your solvent is to least longer.

Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

geosar
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Post by geosar » Mon Apr 04, 2011 12:41 pm

Great suggestions as well, Jensen.

Is this a good prep prior to zinc plating?

What are your thoughts about the Chem tool can for parts which comes with it's own basket?
Thank you

George
Arizona

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