Disassembling Lower end

Snakeoil · Post by **Snakeoil** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:19 am

No offense, Dana, but Big B, don't use screwdrivers. Get a piece of hardwood. Believe it or not, treated deck lumber is pretty tough. I use scraps all the time for purposes such as this. Also, get yourself a dead blow hammer/mallet. They sell them in Harbor Freight and most good tool stores. They are plastic with lead shot inside. They come in various sizes. I bought a set of 3 in one of those motel tool sales for peanuts a few years ago.

regards,
Rob

Dana01 · Post by **Dana01** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 6:50 pm

You're right of course snake ... and I was incorrect about the orientation (it was late at night). The area to tap, if the motor is upside down is just above where the starter motor wire runs. There's a little channel ... not two as I said before. The two on the back are useless for separating the cases because they're facing up when the motor is upside down.

And snake ... I forgot to mention ... my hammer is made of wood ;)

<hic>

big-b · Post by **big-b** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 8:27 pm

Done for now.

Brian

Dana01 · Post by **Dana01** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 8:37 pm

Unsolicited advice: don't forget to remove and inspect the shifter pawl arms for excessive wear (thread elsewhere on the forum)

arseatea · Post by **arseatea** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 3:59 pm

One thing I'd like to add. I had a hard time separating mine and couldn't understand why. But I gently pried in some little out of the way places and it finally separated. I found a tight fitting collar about half way up on one of the interior studs that prevented easy separation. Since this engine was factory "cherry", I guessed the collar was installed by the factory and left it when I re-assembled the two halves. Now I am looking to see if the nuts need to be torqued. The book only says to tighten. I did torque them to 20 ft/lbs. But that was just a guess. Ron