Disassembling Lower end

big-b · Post by **big-b** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:48 pm

I think once i pull the rotor i'll be ready to separate the lower engine. Is there anything i need to be extra careful about? Are any parts going to go flying?

This picture has me a little nervous, it looks like the previous owner used some sort of JB weld type substance just above the rotor. I guess i'll get a better look when it all comes apart.

Brian

48lesco · Post by **48lesco** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:59 am

No, just remove the two nuts on the top case, turn it over and make sure to get all the nuts and bolts on the bottom. Tap around with a rubber mallet and it should pop loose. Don't take a chance of damaging the mating surfaces by prying. Should look something like the attached picture. Where you lose parts is when you remove the countershaft. There's a bunch of rollers in the bearing on the side where the kicker shaft comes out. They come out and bounce around a concrete floor like a Steeler fumble. Keep looking until you have 12. Take a lot of pictures.

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:14 pm

Although it's desirable, it's not essential to pull the rotor to split the casings. You'll need to pull the rotor to replace the crankshaft and starter sprocket oil seals though.

Snakeoil · Post by **Snakeoil** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:24 pm

Put an old towel or blanket on your bench under the engine. It will stop things like rollers and such from rolling off the table and into the next county.

I like to split an engine inside a plastic mortar tub. I use the tub for large parts cleaning and a bunch of other stuff, but it gives you a large area that keeps all the liquids and small bits in one place. Being plastic, it also protects surfaces.

I bought one of these tubs in Home Depot years ago and have had an long standing love relationship with it ever since. Also works great for bring grimey and leaky engines and such home from junk yards, swap meets, old ladies' basements, etc.

regards,
Rob

davomoto · Post by **davomoto** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:37 pm

The JB weld is there because the last person to assemble the engine didn't line the knock pin up with the hole in the bearing, and pushed it through the case when tightening the case halves together. I've seen this on more than one occasion. The JB weld repair holds up fine, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just be sure you don't make the same mistake!

Davo

big-b · Post by **big-b** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:55 pm

davomoto wrote:The JB weld is there because the last person to assemble the engine didn't line the knock pin up with the hole in the bearing, and pushed it through the case when tightening the case halves together. I've seen this on more than one occasion. The JB weld repair holds up fine, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just be sure you don't make the same mistake!

Davo

That make me feel a little better.

Brian

Dana01 · Post by **Dana01** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 3:22 am

Hi Brian,

With the motor upside down, there are two protruding non-mating metal areas at the back of the motor (about 1/2" by 1"). You can "tap" on these to assist in separating the case halves. I knocked them a bit with a screwdriver to help me. You have to come up form the underside with your implement (the upper side of the motor).