Need help with Honda Scrambler pipe question

smi481 · Post by **smi481** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:44 pm

I just installed a set of pipes on my 1965 CL77 305
and the bottom pipe, as it crosses above the Left side engine
case, is MAYBE a 1/16" above it as it begins to go up.

I am sure the heat is going to blister the side case
grey paint because it is so close.

Is this close tolerance normal? Or is it possible the fellow
I bought it from included 250 pipes, instead of 305 ... or is
there no difference between the pipes for both bikes??

Thanks for your help.

smi481

gramey7 · Post by **gramey7** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:12 pm

My gap is about 1/4" at the closest (the top forward bolt location of the oil filter cover) distance to the side cover. I don't think there is a difference in the shapes of the 250 and 305 versions, just the different muffler configurations at the back. I guess my advice would be to let us know if the paint gets blistered unless you want to take a chance on a new pipe having a greater distance.
George

gramey7 · Post by **gramey7** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:31 pm

Oops, I see by Mr. Silver's Restoration Guide that the early 250 left (lower) pipes had a "tighter bend that the 305 pipe". I'm not sure what that means geometrically, but maybe Mr. Silver or EMO can "pipe" up.
George

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 6:01 am

As you look at the Left Side Pipe of a CL72 you will see it starts to bend down/left as soon as it leaves the rossette and the CL77 will show about One Inch streight pipe before it starts it's bend. This pipe is always close to the Clutch Cover and you must wiggle/shake it as high as possible as you tighten the rossette nuts and rear bolt. .............lm

gramey7 wrote:Oops, I see by Mr. Silver's Restoration Guide that the early 250 left (lower) pipes had a "tighter bend that the 305 pipe". I'm not sure what that means geometrically, but maybe Mr. Silver or EMO can "pipe" up.
George

shodan · Post by **shodan** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 12:27 pm

I have a cl-77, my rear pipe attach point has over the years elongated and the hole is ovaled, that resulted in my low pipe riding the case and it wore a groove into the case. So I will weld a doubler plate on the attach point and that is another problem you may encounter. The case is functional and the wear markis hidden by the pipe

I might also have a fabricator friend gusset the hole so it will not wear down. Also the threads lose their tension over time, and due to over torque, so use lock tight and a good quality flat and lockwasher once your ready to leave the fastener in place for a while. If the fastener backs out your threds have lost their grip metal fatigue and you can tap with next size up.

At the head use new studs and nuts and lock washers to avoid metal fatigue if the nuts back off. Use a die to clean up the threads and a tap to clean up the mate hole.