I am at a loss, I thought it was low compression but

[LOUD MOUSE]

Very good j.
I just wondered where ya were on it. ..........lm

Hi Ed and flutetears,

Don't know, it doesn't sound logical either, but I encountered it with a dream a few months ago, but the electrics weren't fresh either. Normally the switch does contact to mass, and closes the circuit that makes the lamp starts to burn. In gear the contact is always open, and should not affect anything.

I did read the question, and this came into my mind. The dream just quit on me, while shifting into gear, just like some sort of kill switch. Got the bike running after unplugging the neutral switch. There were some more electric issues with the bike, in the end I replaced the electrics and stator by another one, issue's were gone.

Maybe it was the only mass seen from the battery / ignition due to bad mass elsewhere or just a faulty ignition switch ( the plus wire from the neutral lamp is running to the plus of the battery via the ignition switch).

My memory triggered on the shifting thing, because it took me hours to get that dream riding. Everything was OK, idling, revving, but as soon as I shifted the bike in gear, it died on me, every time again. Found out that the the spark was gone as soon I shifted in gear. I had two choices, find the error, or replace the electrics with a used known good set, I chose for the last option.

Jensen

[FluteTears]

Hi Ed and flutetears,

Don't know, it doesn't sound logical either, but I encountered it with a dream a few months ago, but the electrics weren't fresh either. Normally the switch does contact to mass, and closes the circuit that makes the lamp starts to burn. In gear the contact is always open, and should not affect anything.

I did read the question, and this came into my mind. The dream just quit on me, while shifting into gear, just like some sort of kill switch. Got the bike running after unplugging the neutral switch. There were some more electric issues with the bike, in the end I replaced the electrics and stator by another one, issue's were gone.

Maybe it was the only mass seen from the battery / ignition due to bad mass elsewhere or just a faulty ignition switch ( the plus wire from the neutral lamp is running to the plus of the battery via the ignition switch).

My memory triggered on the shifting thing, because it took me hours to get that dream riding. Everything was OK, idling, revving, but as soon as I shifted the bike in gear, it died on me, every time again. Found out that the the spark was gone as soon I shifted in gear. I had two choices, find the error, or replace the electrics with a used known good set, I chose for the last option.

Jensen

Well I could see if a wiring problem like a burnt wire to the the switch and then to ground and that would kill the engine. I have to say that would be a first but bottom line is yes disconnect that switch and see if it is the problem I well think that this is not the problem but this is something to do to find the problem. Hell it just a simple wire LOL
Brad

[jensen]

Hi Ed and Flutetears,

I expected that Matt checked the obvious things (tuning recipe from Ed) etc.

And after that, the non obvious things comes to mind, like carbonized mufflers, bad brakes, worn wheel bearings, worn trans bearing, very tight chain (comes together with the worn trans bearing mostly), vague electrics (broken wires, wrong connections), bad condenser, issue's with advance mechanism, bad battery, and of course carb slides.

But my mind jumped to my own experience while I was reading the question., and that aren't always the most obvious things (I check the obvious things first), and the chance that it this error is indeed very small,

However, the main reason why I not only thought about this, but also decided to write it down as a possible reason, is the fact that Matt decided to ask his question in the electrics / wiring section of the forum.

Why ? Maybe it was a coincidence, but maybe Matt expected it as something electrical, I overlooked the fact that this is Matt's fifth post (where are you located Matt ?), but that doesn't say it all either,

But again, not the most logical reason indeed,

Jensen

[e3steve]

Possibly a failing condenser? Years ago I had amotors run at idle and then die as soon as any throttle was applied; it turned out to be the condenser! Swapped it out and all was sweeeeeeet! Just a thought......

Otherwise, Ed's suggestion is well-valid; are the carb slides in the correct carbs -- slides' cutaways facing the air filters? As, equally, could be a very lean mixture which would manifest itself in a similar manner with your symptoms. Pull the plugs and check the combustion colour; if the plugs are grey, then it's very weak (lean) -- if they're sooty, then that's very rich. Alternatively, if they're wet then that's a weak spark / poor combustion.

[silverclerk@gmail.com]

Thanks guys. I just got back this post. My bike has been out of commission for a couple months now. After not being able to go uphill the bike locked up. I thought the piston seized but it did not, it was something with the starter. I took the right side engine cover off and the right side starter motor cover off and 90% of the squeaking/engine stuck was gone. After removing the rotor as you all helped me with 100% of the squeaking/stuck engine was gone. However, the chain seemed fine and the rollers from the starter clutch seemed to be in place so I don't know what it was all about. I hooked the starter motor up to a battery and it turned fine. Any ideas?
As for the original posting, yes the carbs were installed properly. It has the original condenser from 1965 so I imagine that could be the problem. I'm gonna look around on how to test that.

[conbs]

Bushing inside the big starter sprocket?

[conbs]

Bushing inside the big starter sprocket?