I do not understand how to remove the rotor

[LOUD MOUSE]

IMO there is to much concern about the crank being Fragile!
When I work with these cranks and look for defects/problems I have yet to find one Out Of Alignment.
I do find Warn/Damaged rollers and Right Side Race surface.
I take that rotor bolt out with a 3/8 inch Air Ratchet and it comes loose so quick I can actually hold the rotor with my other hand.
So what's the big deal? ....................lm

Steve, that probably works fine, but my preferred method is to simply shock the bolt.

If it has been overtightened or is corroded in place, even a long breaker bar sometimes does not work. What always works for me is a smart tap with a big (2lb) hammer. I use a 12" breaker bar and simply smack it hard to crack the threads.

An air wrench is probably better but mine is pretty gutless and doesn't always get the job done, but a big "knockometer" works every time. It may take half a dozen blows, but it will come loose.

[e3steve]

Steve, that probably works fine, but my preferred method is to simply shock the bolt.

If it has been overtightened or is corroded in place, even a long breaker bar sometimes does not work. What always works for me is a smart tap with a big (2lb) hammer. I use a 12" breaker bar and simply smack it hard to crack the threads.

An air wrench is probably better but mine is pretty gutless and doesn't always get the job done, but a big "knockometer" works every time. It may take half a dozen blows, but it will come loose.

And at least with Jensen's method of holding the rotor it removes clutch slip from the equation. I don't do oil filters so I don't have a filter strap.

[e3steve]

IMO there is to much concern about the crank being Fragile!
When I work with these cranks and look for defects/problems I have yet to find one Out Of Alignment.
I do find Warn/Damaged rollers and Right Side Race surface.
I take that rotor bolt out with a 3/8 inch Air Ratchet and it comes loose so quick I can actually hold the rotor with my other hand.
So what's the big deal? ....................lm

Steve, that probably works fine, but my preferred method is to simply shock the bolt.

If it has been overtightened or is corroded in place, even a long breaker bar sometimes does not work. What always works for me is a smart tap with a big (2lb) hammer. I use a 12" breaker bar and simply smack it hard to crack the threads.

An air wrench is probably better but mine is pretty gutless and doesn't always get the job done, but a big "knockometer" works every time. It may take half a dozen blows, but it will come loose.

I think, Ed, that silverclerk's bolt is really bloody stuck. I don't have an air-wrench (but I am watching a couple of Snap On cordless impact guns on eBay now!) so I just snick my 'box into gear and smack the 14mm spaniard with my palm.

I still don't see that the crank pins are likely to allow the webs to twist on the pins before clutch slip or something else gives first, though. It seems you agree.

Have I started another of those 'oil topic' type threads here?!

I'm just tying my own shoelaces together, for good measure......

[jensen]

Hi Ed,

I was thinking of suggesting using an air ratchet, but it makes me wonder how many of the people Steve talks about (people with virtually no tools) do have an air compressor and air tools. I admit, I have them, but I decided not to mention this method, not wanting to expose the amount of tools in my (too) well equipped workshop.

Jensen

[davomoto]

Are there really 4 pages on "how to remove a rotor bolt" ?

[LOUD MOUSE]

Your question may be answered with a YES!!!!!!!! *)^&*%%*(_)*)&^ :-)
Before I had the air tool I used any tool socket/box wrench/open end wrench and would whack it with a hammer as I held the rotor with my free hand.
Did have to use caution where that hand was so I didn't have the tool smack it when the bolt came loose!!!!!!!!!. ........lm

IMO there is to much concern about the crank being Fragile!
When I work with these cranks and look for defects/problems I have yet to find one Out Of Alignment.
I do find Warn/Damaged rollers and Right Side Race surface.
I take that rotor bolt out with a 3/8 inch Air Ratchet and it comes loose so quick I can actually hold the rotor with my other hand.
So what's the big deal? ....................lm

Steve, that probably works fine, but my preferred method is to simply shock the bolt.

If it has been overtightened or is corroded in place, even a long breaker bar sometimes does not work. What always works for me is a smart tap with a big (2lb) hammer. I use a 12" breaker bar and simply smack it hard to crack the threads.

An air wrench is probably better but mine is pretty gutless and doesn't always get the job done, but a big "knockometer" works every time. It may take half a dozen blows, but it will come loose.

I think, Ed, that silverclerk's bolt is really bloody stuck. I don't have an air-wrench (but I am watching a couple of Snap On cordless impact guns on eBay now!) so I just snick my 'box into gear and smack the 14mm spaniard with my palm.

I still don't see that the crank pins are likely to allow the webs to twist on the pins before clutch slip or something else gives first, though. It seems you agree.

Have I started another of those 'oil topic' type threads here?!

I'm just tying my own shoelaces together, for good measure......

[jensen]

Hi Steve,

I have to admit I have seldom seen a crank of a 250 / 305 engine which showed signs if this kind of "abuse", but I have seen many two stroke cranks twisted only due to the fact that one of the pistons seized during riding.

I think I gave the answer myself before the question dropped in. It is not likely to damage the crank with the method, but when the bolt is really stuck, this method can damage your crank.

Ed is very right about the bearings, not to mention the transmission bearing too,

Jensen