Yup, slipping clutch, I'd say. Without an impact wrench I'd suggest several coats of the "rolling off the stand" method.
You are giving the wrench that you're using a good, sharp smack? This is where a heavy (2lb>) hammer works (sorry Jensen!); hit the wrench as close to where it connects to the bolt as possible.
Do you have an impact driver with a half-inch drive?
I do not understand how to remove the rotor
Ready to roll (off)As I stated previously: many ways to skin a rabbit.
Images showing mine prepped for a "centrestand rolloff" to shock the rotor bolt loose. Use top gear. One method should do it eventually. With only a (shorter) ⅜"-drive ratchet to hand, use two hoseclips to extend the length of the ratchet handle using a strong-bladed screwdriver. lm: btw, I put the breather tubes back on my carbs because I had a float get stuck and flood the valley cover. Ruined the paint; not that I'm worried about that too much as I overpainted the cover with some (crap) experimental lacquer.
Lost magnetismBrew, it's possible to collect the lost magnetism with a ferrous object -- a large nail-/pry-bar (jemmy) works; just wave it around beneath the bike and around the floor area, place the end used in a plastic container or old copper/alu pot, drop the rotor in and it'll be restored instantly. Success is indicated by the rotor becoming attached the the object used to collect.........
Hi Steve,
I don't want to criticize your method, and as long as you have good experiences with it it's OK. From a mechanical point of view, you use the force of the wheel to turn the crank. Since the driving force of the crank is on the other side of the rotor, the crank is used as a torsion bar. A crank in general can handle torsion, that's part of it's function, but there are limitations in the amount of torsion these cranks can handle, especially when you use an impulse (impact) as driving force. Since the crank of these 250 and 305's are build-up cranks were the parts are pressed together, extra care should be taken to avoid impact loads similar as you describe. I have to admit I have seldom seen a crank of a 250 / 305 engine which showed signs if this kind of "abuse", but I have seen many two stroke cranks twisted only due to the fact that one of the pistons seized during riding. The pressure I use to disamble and assemble these cranks is not very high, therefore it is not wise to use these type of cranks as a torsion bar in the way you describe. A twisted crank by a few degree's is causing unbalances and almost impossible to adjust the ignition, especially for a 360 degree crank. Maybe I'm too cautioned and too precise, but this is how I work, and the only way I can give advice, My advise would be : removing the kick starter side cover and the stator, and clamp the rotor with an oil filter clamp, so you add force only on the rotor, this has no effect on the crank in any way. Use penetrating oil a few hours before removing the rotor. Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
Good point J-man.......(I'm sure you think so, anyway). What I mean is: get real; I'm p-r-e-t-t-y certain that a tight/seized M8 bolt or machine screw would loosen (or shear), the spanner/brake pedal/footpeg would bend or the ratchet pawl would give way before the torsional force twisted a Honda crankshaft. JMHO.........(!)
I'm working on solutions here for guys with limited experience/tool resources/budget and knowledge; not a degree in physics and a fully equipped workshop. I've said so before: you're too serious sometimes, man.
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