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Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77

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WrenchRust
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Post by WrenchRust » Thu Oct 07, 2010 10:40 am

Loud Mouse, I was trying to knock the bearings out with a screwdriver and a hammer. I'm guessing this is NOT the proper aproach to removing bearings...

LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Thu Oct 07, 2010 10:43 am

I wondered for sure.
I drive the cam end out of the bearing.
Ya may want to consider using brass/aluminum nest time. .........lm

WrenchRust wrote:Loud Mouse, I was trying to knock the bearings out with a screwdriver and a hammer. I'm guessing this is NOT the proper aproach to removing bearings...

WrenchRust
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Posts: 146
Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2010 9:35 am
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post by WrenchRust » Thu Oct 07, 2010 1:50 pm

I will definitely take the advice on getting those bearings free. Thanks.

Back to the Transmission.

First, With everything pushed together, I have about 1mm play, see picture below...

Image




Second, If I space out the extra room, you can see it in the copper bushing, See picture Below...

Image



Third, Wondering if I'm getting enough gear contact and How it looks so far??? See Below...

Image


Thanks for Looking. As you can see, I haven't x'ed the gears yet. Want to make sure everything looks good first.

Joel

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Snakeoil
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Post by Snakeoil » Fri Oct 08, 2010 9:38 am

A word of caution regarding bead or sand blasting engine parts. There are nooks and crannies, especially in crank cases that the sand or glass beads will get into and stay until you put the engine back together and the oil flushes it out. As you know, sand and glass is hell on bearings and journals. So blast with caution and mask properly. If you take it for blasting, I would suggest you maskt it yourself because the guy doing the blasting probably does not give a damn about your engine. Personally, I would use paint stripper and Naval Jelly or simililar products to spruce up an engine unless I was 100% sure I could bead blast it and not get beads into oil galleries and other passages.

Another tip is if you do blast it, regardless of masking, make sure you have thoroughly degreased and cleaned the cases until they are squeaky clean. You don't want anything grabbing and holding onto glass beads.
regards,
Rob

LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Fri Oct 08, 2010 10:09 am

I blast every part other than the CRANK ASSY. and I put bolts in all threaded holes.
I do this when all parts are DRY and never find any remaining media.
I use round media even on the carb parts.
Careful is the word for me. ...........lm

Snakeoil wrote:A word of caution regarding bead or sand blasting engine parts. There are nooks and crannies, especially in crank cases that the sand or glass beads will get into and stay until you put the engine back together and the oil flushes it out. As you know, sand and glass is hell on bearings and journals. So blast with caution and mask properly. If you take it for blasting, I would suggest you maskt it yourself because the guy doing the blasting probably does not give a damn about your engine. Personally, I would use paint stripper and Naval Jelly or simililar products to spruce up an engine unless I was 100% sure I could bead blast it and not get beads into oil galleries and other passages.

Another tip is if you do blast it, regardless of masking, make sure you have thoroughly degreased and cleaned the cases until they are squeaky clean. You don't want anything grabbing and holding onto glass beads.
regards,
Rob

WrenchRust
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Posts: 146
Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2010 9:35 am
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post by WrenchRust » Fri Oct 08, 2010 6:33 pm

Great information... Thanks. I like the bolt holes idea, LM.

Question, Will duct tape be good to mask off the area's I don't want blasted? And besides the machined area's, what other area's do I want to be careful with?

Rob, I would have considered using chemicals to clean the top end, but the De-Greaser I used turned everything really dark gray. Not the color I was hoping for.

Suggestions, for cleaning the casings? I've hear things about walnut shell???

And, Since nobody commented on the Transmission pictures, should I assume that everything looks good and in place???

Thanks again,

Joel

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Snakeoil
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Post by Snakeoil » Sun Oct 10, 2010 9:28 am

I'm not a fancy cleaners kinda guy. I buy low odor mineral spirits for all my part cleaning chores. I will use a can of spray carb cleaner or brake clean for getting small areas squeaky clean, but found that for the most part, mineral spirits gets the job done without any health risks and at a reasonable cost.

I've used walnut shell media to clean non-metallic parts. I actually used it to clean old cloth covered wiring harnesses. It does a great job of blast off the old varnish, then you just revarnish and it looks like new.

One of the blasting horror stories I heard was from guys with OIF Triumphs and BSAs. Powdercoaters that don't know these bikes have blasted the frames and filled up the oil tank in the frame with sand. Owners went thru Hell to get them flushed out. And you never really know if you got it all.
regards,
Rob

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