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Starter switch assembly

Charging System, Wiring, Lighting
mobilyte
honda305.com Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:57 pm
Location: Chicago

Post by mobilyte » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:07 pm

there is no coating. i completely hit my brass plate with an abrasive rubber wheel and followed with a good e-cleaning in a hot alkaline tank. if there was a coating to begin with, it's long gone and i would have the same problem you are experiencing.

make sure the yellow/red insulation on the wiring isnt damaged and allowing the wire to ground itself near the handlebar opening. another area of concern is the soldered connection on the back side of the contact board.

MBellRacing
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Posts: 178
Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 2:23 pm
Location: San Mateo, Ca

Post by MBellRacing » Sat Oct 02, 2010 1:52 am

I had this EXACT problem the other day. I rebuilt both switch assemblies and found that the hole for my previous owner-installed drag bars were drilled incorrectly. This was causing the wire to pull partially out of the switch when the two screws on the clam shell were tightened, shorting the un-insulated bit to the case.

It's hard to check, but worth putting some heavy shrink wrap or other insulation on. I put a dab of silicone on the back of the wood-type-thing in the switch, let it dry for a moment, then pressed the shrink wrap on it and around the wire, then heated it up. Worked perfectly, even with the awkward hole.

Eljeef
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Posts: 458
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 11:38 am
Location: Windsor, Ontario

Post by Eljeef » Sat Oct 02, 2010 4:26 am

OK. The wire (yellow/red) was pulled out of the insulation a bit. I coated it with some liquid electrical tape but haven't tried it yet. It's interesting what was said about tightening the screws and have the wire pull away. Perhaps that is what happened. I will be working on it Saturday and will let the outcome be known. Thanks, Jeff.
1964-C77 305 Dream
2002 BMW R1150GS

Eljeef
honda305.com Member
Posts: 458
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 11:38 am
Location: Windsor, Ontario

Post by Eljeef » Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:59 pm

Just thought I would follow up on this thread. I fixed my switch problem by coating the exposed end of the yellow/red wire with liquid electrical tape (although this didn't fully solve the problem) and I then applied a thick coat to the underside of the brass spade wherever it met the power supply. Works great now. :)
1964-C77 305 Dream
2002 BMW R1150GS

e3steve
h305 Moderator
Posts: 2601
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:42 am

Good one, Jeff. I must pull mine apart (it's NOS) and pic 'n' post it for future reference.

Thanks for updating.

e3steve
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Posts: 2601
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:53 pm

Well, Jeff, this is how it should look inside the throttle cave ass'y. This is a CB/CP type but the internals should be pretty much the same. It looks to me like either yours has been 'modified' at sometime in its life (or mine is a newer, modified design). I see yours has the 2.5- or 3-mm screw thread in the base also, so perhaps the original retainer was lost and the plate was fabricated to take its place?. I can't get a good look at your retainer, but does it look 'home-made' to you? Perhaps the C/CA ass'y differed internally to allow for the throttle actuator.

Anyways, hope this helps clear up the anomaly.
Attachments
Starter button detail 2.jpg
Starter button detail 1.jpg

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