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Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77

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WrenchRust
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Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2010 9:35 am
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post by WrenchRust » Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:03 pm

There's a rubber washer with a metal washer embedded up in the upper forks inside the headlight ears. These rubber washers were stuck and keeping the tree from coming apart. Lots of PB Blaster and a real steel hammer and patience. But I got them apart, finally. I will be needing a new pair of these washers. Are these the fork seals?

Tomorrow I'm getting a pair of adjustable pin spanner wrench. I'll get this apart soon enough.

I'll be complaining about something else not coming apart soon enough, I'm sure. But I'm learning, PB Blaster, a hammer and patience.

Talk to you guys soon,

Joel

e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:50 am

Joel, it sounds like you're doing great, mate; every day's a school day for us all, for sure. Your learning curve is getting steeper the deeper you go.

Observation: if you don't already have them, get yourself a goodly-sized lump hammer -- at least a 3-pounder -- and a smaller, double-faced, hard Nylon hammer where the impact faces are screwed into, or bonded to, a metal head; that will also double as intermediary to transfer the weight and energy from the steel hammer when you need to smack the shite out of a stubborn item without inflicting damage.

jensen
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Post by jensen » Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:33 am

If a hammer is your only tool, everything starts look like a nail
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

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Snakeoil
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Post by Snakeoil » Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:19 am

regards,
Rob[/quote]Agreed, Rob. But it sounds as though the spindle is likely to be shagged anyway. At least the threads could be cleaned up with a file and/or junior hacksaw; and the nipple orifice reamed with a mousetail file or a 5(?)mm drill bit.[/quote]

I see you got it out, so congrats on that. The point I was making was not that it would ruin the pivot bolt, which it would, but mushrooming the end with a steel drift and big mutha hammer could result in yet another interference fit between the smashed head and the bushings in the frame/swingarm. And you cannot dissolve solid steel with PB Blaster.

I'm replying here to add to your experience file for future use.

regards,
Rob

WrenchRust
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Posts: 146
Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2010 9:35 am
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post by WrenchRust » Wed Sep 01, 2010 12:58 pm

It's really great to get this kind of encouragement, support and guidance. I couldn't have gotten this far without it, heck, I probably wouldn't have even started this project without the help I've seen you guys so freely give. This forum is very inspiring.

And Bill Silvers Book just got here so I'm going to settle down for a good read.

Joel

e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Thu Sep 02, 2010 9:54 am

jensen wrote:If a hammer is your only tool, everything starts look like a nail
Oh dear, Jensen, you're off on one of your 'Utopia' trips again, aren't you! In a perfect world......

Every tear-down needs some hammering at one stage or another. Unless one happens to own a magic wand, of course!

e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:10 am

Snakeoil wrote:I see you got it out, so congrats on that. The point I was making was not that it would ruin the pivot bolt, which it would, but mushrooming the end with a steel drift and big mutha hammer could result in yet another interference fit between the smashed head and the bushings in the frame/swingarm. And you cannot dissolve solid steel with PB Blaster.

I'm replying here to add to your experience file for future use.

regards,
Rob
Good advice. Mushrooming the end would have been bloody unfortunate -- and I love the idea of the copper earthing rod being used as a drift. Nice one!

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